Hi I have never repaired a board before and I could use some advice. My friend gave me his old 9'0 longboard and it has some dings and cracks in the resin and could use some work around the nose and tail. MY buddy patched it up with some play dough looking quick patch when he surfed on it, but it still looks like it needs some work. Anyways, I'm only looking to make sure it's water tight so I can surf this winter. I plan on doing a more extensive repair job in the summer time when it's not 10 degrees in my garage. Here are some pictures of what needs to be fixed. any pointers would be awesome. Thanks!
You will need a place that’s at least 60 degrees, even for a temporary repair. Looks like more work than it’s worth.
yea, my basement is warm enough, it's not as bad as it looks in person, I figure it just needs some sanding, some epoxy and there I go but I don't want to mess it up. I just need to make it water tight so I can get surfing again.
yea, my basement is warm enough, it's not as bad as it looks in person, I figure it just needs some sanding, some epoxy and there I go but I don't want to mess it up. I just need to make it water tight so I can get surfing again.
Id just pick up some cloth and resin ( i like epoxy) and cut the cloth to fit wet it and set it over possible leak spots. then give it a coat after it drys.. There is some good info for fixing dings in the forums. which you could use later when you do the real resoration. The only actuall good info i do have is resin alone wont seal a leak. you need some form of fiber in it to stop the leak
I have some polyester resin and fiberglass cloth from boat repairs, is this alright to use?
Howzit superfan, Wish you would have posted a picture of the whole board so we could se the total damage instead of just a few individual shots. Fromwhat I could see you might think about sandng the whole board and reglassing it even though it will add weight. Boat resin will ill work in a pinch and you wont have to use SA since boat resin is sandable as is. I would use the lightest weight glass you canfind to keep the added weight down to a minimum. One thing I think I rememberright is that boat resin comes in 15 minute and 30 minute which means it takes that long before it starts to kick but the amount of catalyst determins how fast and hard it kicks when the time limit comes. Aloha,Kokua
The rest of the board is fine, the pictures I put up are of the spots that I was worried about. What is SA?
Incorrect.
Resin will seal a leak. It just doesn’t add strength to critical repairs or large areas.
You might want to re-think that “good info”.
You are both kind of right. There is a difference between filling and sealing a hole. Resin or filler poured into a deep ding will fill it, and seal it temporarily. The first time the area is flexed, stepped on, bumped, or whatever, it will come loose around the edges and start to leak without some cloth layed over the top.
The dings in the pictures need the cracks and damaged glass sanded out and cloth layed over and sanded smooth. You may need some resin or filler in the bottom of the deeper ones. The brown areas around the dings is water damage to the foam because somebody didn’t fix the dings and let them leak for a long time. It’s a good practice board for beginning to learn how to fix dings.
SA is sanding agent.
A ding that has broken glass or a deep puncture certainly needs more than just resin. But, small cracks and chips do not need cloth just to prevent leakage. I’ve been repairing dings since 1967. I’ve had a little practice and know what works and what doesn’t, by now.
Conversely, a friend of mine swears by Pettit bond and uses only that for all kinds of repairs. He has no problem with leaks, as far as I know.
Yes, you are right. (as I said before) Some resin or filler will plug it until the first surf, then it needs a proper repair if he doesn’t want it to leak. But I think he is at a more basic level of craftsmanship, so I tried to word my response accordingly. I hope you understand.
Right on, I know what I have to do. I grew up around sailboats and I have a dad who's got every tool under the sun and if he can make something rather than buy it, he'll make it. This is an easy fix. I just needed some advice since this is my first time working on fiberglass. I have only watched my dad do it when I was younger.
Patch and ride is my motto.Sand the repair area with some 80 grit,dig out the chewing gum and surf wax then sand a bit more.cut your glass to size and place over the repair,1 or 2 layers is good enough.apply enough resin to wet the cloth and press it flat with a bondo spreader and remove the excess resin.Let it cure.From here you can either ride it or you can sand it down a bit and brush on a finish coat.Let the finish coat cure then hit it with 220 grit,320,400 etc depending on how much shine you want it to have.
.cut your glass to size and place over the repair,1 or 2 layers is good enough.apply enough resin to wet the cloth and press it flat with a bondo spreader and remove the excess resin.Let it cure.From here you can either ride it or you can sand it down a bit and brush on a finish coat.
Glass fibers will wick moisture into a ding, if exposed. Always good to put a sealer coat of sanding resin on a repair. Plus, glass patches will often have some rough edges that can cause cuts or abrasions to the skin. My minimum repair is: laminate patch, sand, coat with resin. It doesn’t take that much more work, than a quick and dirty patch, to get a little more ‘finish’ to it.
I saturate my fibers with resin.I agree with you though,its better to do the repair right the first time.
Get “The Ding Repair Scriptures”. It is the bible of ding repair. It will be the best $12-$15 you ever spent.
Thanks ozzy, I will definatly get that book. About the shine, I don't think this board is gonna ever shine unless it gets a complete overhaul. haha. I got it patched up with some epoxy resin, sanded, cut out broken bits and pieces, filled the holes etc, I just need to do some fiberglass patches on the dings. Hopefully it'll all stay together once I'm done. I got this board for free so I'm not loosing sleep if it springs another leak, I just need it to surf til I get another board.
I saturate my fibers with resin.
Who doesn’t ? The point is that any patch laminated and squeegeed to some extent will have exposed fibers. These can wick water into a ding, over time.
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[quote="$1"] The only actuall good info i do have is resin alone wont seal a leak. you need some form of fiber in it to stop the leak [/quote]
Incorrect.
Resin will seal a leak. It just doesn't add strength to critical repairs or large areas.
You might want to re-think that "good info".
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sorry should have said trying to seal open foam with just resin alone wont do the trick.. I have tried this multiple times( slow learner ) and never had succsess.. but it sounds like super shoudl have plenty of info to get the board up and going..
Thanks for the book advice there ozzy ill have to check it out