Reshaped nose

Cut a short longboard’s nose off because it was bashed and neglected. There is about 10 inches of foam on the bottom that has been reshaped. When I laminate does the lapping on the board need to be sanded down to the weave?


You should never sand anything down to the weave - not sure exactly what you’re asking though (not sure you really know either) - the “laps” on a board are where the glass rolls down over the rail and “laps” onto the other side of the board. when you laminate, you should still be able to see the weave in the fabric or you’re using way too much resin. A well laminated board, when cured,will be only cured, saturated glass with no pooling of resin. I think you’re referring to your sanding coat/hotcoat, which should never be sanded “to the weave” otherwise, what would be the point of doing it in the first place. 


The idea of filler coats like the hotcoat or sanding coat are to fill the small pores created between the strands of fiberglass on your cloth, as well as adding some strength and durability. It sounds like you need to take a good long look through the archives and verse yourself on the basics of laminating boards before you jump into this project

I took the question to mean, where the new fiberglass over the rebuilt nose laps over the old fiberglass, does the existing glass need to be sanded down to the weave, before glassing over with the new.

The answer is no, not really, but its not gonna hurt anything if u hit a little weave in the area that’s getting new glass, it is good to sand the area where the new has to bond to the old.  One you laminate the new glass on, you try to feather the edge of the new glass as best as you can by sanding, so along the edge where the new glass laps over the old, you will hit the weave a bit there as you feather it out, then hotcoat over it.

Repairs are seldom 100% invisible, but they should look neat and professional.

Sand past the spot where the new glass will go. About an inch or more. Laminate the new glass. Hot coat that and run the hot coat out past the edge of the new glass so you don’t have a sharp transition from old to new. This gives some resin to ‘sacrifice’ when you feather the repair in and lessens the chance of sanding into the weave in the original glass…

Ahhhh… I see - that makes more sense now, I just couldn’t shake my head free of what I see the word “lap” to mean - yeah huck and sammy are right, 


Really, you need to just “prep” the area - meaning get rid of any shine on the board as this is usually the layer with parafin from the hotcoat. Once its roughed up and cloudy you’re good to go, it’s actually best not to hit the weave when possible, but like huck said it isn’t gonna kill anything. Just make sure you prep all the way out to as far as your hotcoat will go, as any unprepped area will just chip off and cause you a major headache