Can someone post pics about how to properly tape for a resin dam? To put the hard edge on the rail in the tail. Also what do you do when the tail has some kick in the rocker? I just tried one and because of the tail rocker the resin pooled in one area and drained out from another area.
Howzit llilbel, Sounds like you need to make sure the tail area is level on your racks. That should make it easy. Aloha,Kokua
hi jeff. this is the way i do it. glass bottom a bit heavier and when you do the top you tape and cut taper the laps so they hang at the tail. then trim a 1 mm higher and use that as the dam.
no laps in the tail. very clean and easy to sand. no taping the resin dam
that sounds real interesting Silly. seems pretty straight forward. also would help minimize bubbles in the tight-wrap areas.
obvious question: durability?
i too have problems making a resin dam. i usually have to go back and add resin sometimes more than once to get a
suitable dam for that hard edge in the back.
post deleted.
hi chris this is very durable and clean glass job
you can use 5 or 6 oz on the bottom instead of 4 and weights of laps and filler is close to the same. the cloth hangs down and fill with resin and make a crips edge that is very durable as it is fiberglass (not just a resin edge)and requires very little sanding. the tail sands in no time at all and elimates any chance of sandthrough in this area which i see is common on shop boards. the glasser over fills to cover the laps and then the sander heats the weave on the edges, leaving nothing there. this is a cleaner and better way imo and its the the way huie does it. i believe he is posting the one of cleanest boards on swaylocks. but its your choice and i do not twist anyones arm . i dont care how people do it myself. but this way is easy strong and clean and done by master glassers. so i suggest you try it at least once and make your own decision
I have no problem doing the dams with tape, but that is a good trick silly. No problem with 2 layers from the deck hanging down? The rails are just as strong in the tail?
I’ll have to try it out.
Thanks for the tip mate.
I raise the tail on the rack so it’s more level, then I just bend the tape upward when I get to where I want a hard edge. The trick for me is keeping that tape edge just about level with the bottom, but just off the laminated edge to get a bit of a bead in there. Make sure both sides are taped exactly the same way for symmetry.
it sounds like that would work but arent you adding weight unnecessarily (by using heavier cloth)? and how would you do that if you are doing color jobs, particularly trans? i think that might come out a little blotchy. i was taught to do it the way nj surfer said, you just have to be sure to not pull the tape too hard and stretch it, otherwise it will bend and warp and you get a wobbley speed bead. this method is clean and strong and no risk of hitting cloth as long as the sander knows what he is doing. just my two cents, but what do i know- i only have 86 sway points.
Howzit nj, You don't have to have the tape the same or even level with the bottom since you can fix it all when you sand the board. Aloha,Kokua
my last board came out really well…got a really crisp edge everywhere I wanted it.
I do my bottom fill coat and set the tape along the rail so it is extending above the bottom of the deck, especially in nose and tail area. This fill coat only goes on the very bottom, little to no resin winds up on the rail itself.
I let the resin sit in the pot until I can feel it begin to warm…that first phase when it just starts to go from cool resin to a little warm…I feel like letting it kick a bit in the pot keeps more of it on the board when you go to brush out; maybe this is moot with kwik kick.
then, when I do the hotcoat on the deck, I tape on the bottom surface and again let the tape extend out past the edge…this gives a bit of a lip which will keep more resin on the rail…same thing…let resin warm a bit before pouring out and brushing. In this second hotcoat, we hit the entire rail area. This has the side benefit of not creating an arbitrary bead that moves along the rail apex if you do the rail in two passes.
sanding is a little different…you’ll have a lip from that rail pour and you’ll have considerably more resin to sand off in the nose and tail area, but I look at that as a bit of insurance. I sand the deck and rails first to get the rail profile I’m aiming for and then bring the bottom down which leaves a nice crisp griffin-esque edge and really crisp exit edges in the tail.
I actually only had 2 minor spots to touch up after the last board…nary a sandthrough…I did some counting and I realized it’s taken me TWENTY boards to finally arrive at a lam/sanding process that yields a board that does not make me want to punch the wall and cry about it.
I’m an awful sander, so anything I can do to keep the sanding process idiot proof is good for me.
jeff resin dams went out with button up shoes.?
when i am next glassing i will take some pics of a method that is fail safe easy as’’
**while silly has described a method for hp shortys he has forgotten one more step **
wrap the glass or not this method also stops split tails.
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2 minute video I threw together this morning, taping on a finished board for demonstration. pretty sure that this is close to how I was taught by BAMMBAMM808 once a few years back… right or wrong or best way I don’t know but works for me. IMO you want the resin dam portion to build just a thin bead, maybe a nickel thickness or so above bottom edge. you can get into trouble having to sand a fat resin buildup anywhere. hth
off
Thanks for that Bud. I really like the look of the twin fin too. I may be hitting you up for info about that too.
Silly’s method of letting the top lap just go beyond the bottom is interesting. But a some point there is the transition where the glass is lapped under to where it is left hanging. Wouldn’t you get a bump there?
Huie, I wish you weren’t on the other side of the world. I’d love to apprentice for you.
Howzit Bud,That is exactly the way I tape the bottom off to get the right sharp edge. Aloha,Kokua
looking forward to see the pics huie
very modern