I attempted a gloss coat and the resin ran off of the board and cured in patches like it was on a wax surface (I know the board was clean). Could it be the cheap resin I got of ebay? Could it be because I got the resin too warm? What could have caused this. It was epoxy resin by the way.
I can post pictures if needed
Epoxy must have the ratio of resin to hardener mixed precisely. There is little margin for error.
Fully mixing the epoxy in the mixing cup is critical.
Make sure to scrape the sides of the cup frequently and the mixing stick itself.
Make sure the mixing stick can get into the corners of the cup.
and when you can no longer see any swirl marks in the mixed resin, mix it some more scraping the sides, bottom and mixing stick itself again because nothing is worse than a batch of epoxy mixed incorrectly. It is almost easier to start over than remove the failed layer and try again.
Don’t try to heat epoxy resin after it has been poured into a cup for mixing. And heating too much can cause issues on its own
Was it a gloss coat or just a regular hot coat? If it was a gloss, what grit did you sand the hot coat with and how did you clean it? Also, what did you use to apply the resin and what was your work space like? Post some pics.
From the mixing bucket thread…
When mixing epoxy, I use two cups. Pour your
Epoxy and hardener together into the first cup and stir. Then pour a
quarter of the mix into the second cup, and stir that. Pour another
quarter into the second cup and stir more. Third quarter, and then the
fourth.
As you pour it, you will see how little the epoxy and hardener mixed
together the first time you stirred. When the first cup is poured out,
you will see how much straight epoxy is stuck to the side of the first
cup. Scrape that with your paint stick, and pour the mix from the
second cup back into the first, stirring as you go.
After you are done, put the cups down. If they are almost empty, so
you don’t get any exotherm, the remains will flow to the bottom, level
out and harden. Re use the same two cups next time. This only works
with paper cups. The cured epoxy will peel off the plastic buckets, and
float chunks into the mix.
Next tip,
Contrary to what many say, don’t pour out all the epoxy at once. First work a foot square area. Pour out a couple of ounces. take your brush and lightly scrub the epoxy onto the board. This will remove a lot of contaminates on the board. Gets rid of pin holes and small fish eyes.
Pour out the epoxy as you work with the brush. When all poured out, then go to the usual side by side brushing, then the lengthwise brushing. Keep in mind that you don’t want to move the epoxy around, pour it where you use it.
Your last brushing should be as light a stroke as possible, just to remove out deep brush marks.
Then a last hint.
Take a vibrating sander with no sandpaper in it. Turn it on and vibrate the bottom of the board. Watch the reflection of the overhead lights smooth out in the wet epoxy. No heat gun.
Walk away.
Fiberglass Hawaii has two thickness of fast epoxy. Use the thin. First coat after lamination. No Surfacing Agent. Lightly sand, and stop if you tough the weave below. Second coat, and repeat the sanding. No Surfacing Agent Again. Last coat, 2% surfacing agent. Final sand with 400 grit.
Enjoy**
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epoxy resin gloss coat? could you post a pic of the resin label also?
Sorry unable to log on and reply, it was a hot coat. Here are pics
After 2 coats hoping to even out the first and not much success
[img_assist|nid=1075486|title=ew|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]
[img_assist|nid=1075487|title=res|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]
My guess, among other things is the e-bay epoxy.
Surface contamination…without a doubt. Most likely amine blush. Something is on the surface before you laid down the next coat. See below from the description of the product. Not really the resin’s fault per se because there are specific steps to take to avoid the problems from amine blush.
"SC110 is an epoxy polymer coating for metal, concrete, wood, fiberglass and other surfaces requiring a clear coating. SC110 is a specially formulated 2-component epoxy with a modified cycloaliphatic amine curative, which does not contain solvents, thinners or diluents. "
Save yourself a lot of agg next time and use this stuff: http://www.surfsource.net/store/product/silmar_polyester_resin_sand_s250_1_gal11
Other threads have said to wipe the board down with denatured alcohol if using epoxy. I did and I noticed a reduction of fisheyes. The remaining I blame on the dust I had. It was very dusty.
Also, I read on the ResinRearch .pdf from FoamEZ that you should mix hardener and resin for at least a full minute. I set a minute on the iphone timer and, while stirring, use that time to plan out the exact next steps of the glassing process I’m about to do.
Sure as hell looks like it.
Read this link.
I’d be 99% sure that this is your problem.
I made sure the resin and hardner were mixed for four minutes. I think the surface wasnt clean and the resin is horrible. Next time I will get good resin and clean the surface better. Thanks guys.