Resin Pigment Everywhere but the Middle

Its been a long time since I posted.  I have a question I couldnt find in the archives.  

I am doing a board for a customer and wanted to leave the middle of the board white, (the color of the blank) so I can later apply a rice paper color logo.  The rest of the board needs to be blue.  

I have already done a blue pigment foam stain, and the custome does not like the way it turned out.  I told him, the next thing I could do would be to apply the blue pigment to the lam, to get a darker shade of blue.  

The problem, I am running into is how do I do this, without laming the center diamond blue as well? 

Would I do, clear resin, in the middle and once it cured, tape off the area, and then lam the rest of the dry cloth in blue pigment? 

Any help would be appricated.  Good, bad or sarcastic.  I know how you guys are!


P.S. The attached picture is a board I did with acrylic paint on the foam so it was easy to leave the middle white. The customer didnt like the way it turned out so thats why I went with the foam stain and the possible blue pigment lam. Obviously you can see where there were air pockets in the glass too and the acrylic paint didnt blend well thus the reason why the customer wasnt happy.  Besides all that, can you please help answer my question about the blue pigment everywhere but the middle? 

I am sure there are more ways to do this.  When I did the resin swirl on this board I wanted the center diamond left clear, because of the painting.  I masked it off, did the swirl in the initial lam coat, and cut the glass at the masking tape.  Then I glassed the diamond separately with clear resin (or I might have glassed the diamond first, its been awhile and I don’t recall the exact sequence).  The joint was glassed over with the next layer of clear glass.



So what you are saying is your diamond patch and the first layer of lam acted like a “deck patch” and then you laid another layer of glass ontop of both the diamond section and the swirl section to blend everything together? 

Yeah. Because of the tint. Then the next layer was clear and did the full rail wrap.

Thanks!  That helps a lot!  

Why not just mix a darker color and stain again? 

Is he looking for a more solid resin panel look?

Is this board for advertisement purposes? 

The board you posted - Sand the hotcoat super flat. Sand out all your lumps and bumps, fill any air holes or sant throughs. You want a smooth, flat and sealed hotcoat.  Tape off the center and stringer - mix up a blue color of acrylic paint that is what your client wants - and spray it with a spray gun. Several coats. Then gloss, light sand and polish.  - this will cover your blemishes and give you a solid resin panel look. Just don’t sand through the gloss coat cause a seamless repair in the color is pretty difficult. 

The gloss over the paint isn’t the greatest bond but if the board isn’t put through the ringer it will hold up. 

Just another options so you don’t have to make another board.


Grey areas and pinlines are paint. Wanted panels without the weight.

Huck’s method is the proper way to go about it.  Tape off the diamond.  If you are using a really dark color;  double tape the edge so that you can find the diamond under your tinted lam.  Put down your logo and a layer of 4 oz. to the rail Apex over your tinted lam coat.  It might be necessary to put a diamond patch of clear cut to fit in order to insure that you do not feel the edge of the diamond.  Lowel

If you do this or some similar method;  you may be able to salvage the original board.  If you do this don’t tell him you saved it.  Tell him you did a new board.   

Thanks guys!  I am going to go with Hucks method.  Seams like I can salavage it that way.