I have been having problems with my resin pin lines bleeding.
I have tried several ways of doing it but this weekend I got frustated when I checked on the gloss coat and the blue pin was giving up some colour to the gloss and bleeding down the rail.
I use Laminating resin that I have left out for a few days. This way it gets thicker, due to styrenes evaporating away which has been mentioned on a few other posts, I add a little bit of wax to allow a very light sand when done. I left it for a full 24 hours before I did the gloss coat over the pin line.
It all looked good for about 15minutes and then it started. Heart breaking to see it after the pin line came out so clean and crisp.
Did I over do it with Pigment? Dont think so
Was it mixed fully? Maybe a small area but the bleed was not just in one spot and I mixed the crap out of it several times.
Did the styrene I added to the gloss to thin it slightly react with the pin line. I dont think it would but others may know.
The gloss came up very nice but with blue tinting in places it shouldnt.
Any info that will stop me having this issue would be great.
I prefer to do resin pins rather than paint or posca pen. The art of resin pin lines is something I want to get right.
I think you have the right idea with allowing the resin to thicken a bit. Adding some surfacing agent is OK too. I seal with clear lam resin after the tape is applied and once that cures, hit it with the pigmented resin.
To get a good solid line you have to add a lot of pigment but that often leaves enough on the surface to bleed once your gloss hits it. I’ve had some luck with a light swipe or two with an acetone rag. Even after a decent cure time I always seem to be able to get some color on the rag. Use enough catalyst in your poly gloss to get a quick set up.
I’ve had reasonable results with polyester pins coated with epoxy on an epoxy board. My attempts at pigmented epoxy for the pinlines seemed to be problematic (bleeding under the tape) due to longer cure times. Maybe with Quik Cure it would work better.
Regarding Posca pens - I’ve had certain colors bleed on me.
I think Rich Harbour had a video of pinlines being done with acrylic paint. I tried it with epoxy and the epoxy fritzed out over the lines. YMMV.
Lets see some post gloss pics! I would add about 2% surfacing wax to the resin you use for pinlines You want that pinline to be totally cured nice and hard so that the styrene in the gloss resin cant etch into your pinlines. if not enough Surfacing wax, the pigmented resin might remain slighlt tacky on the surface and allow the styrene in the gloss to affect it. Try kicking the gloss a little faster next time. This will prevent all that styrene in the resin from affecting your pinlines. Essentially the gloss coat will start to kick before it has the chance to start messin with your pinlines. Hopefully more of the pros chime in! Good luck
…in the past most pinlines were made with resin or with Rapidograph the ultra thin ones; then paint started the posca pens etc.
With resin is done on the sanded hot coat under the gloss; with brush.
With paint it can be done on the foam; with water based and normally Black, with screenprinting tints to get that deep Black.
On the sanded hot coat; airbrushed or brushed; water based gloss on top or speed finish.
With Polyester colors; airbrushed on top of the sanded hot coat, then speed finish.
With posca pens or other water based tints (India, China ink), airbrushed on top of the sanded hot coat; then gloss or speed finish.
With Rapidograph on top of sanded hot coat then gloss or speed finish.
-This one have resin and posca pens pinlines.
I did the Magenta mixing 2 colors to obtain a deeper magenta/reddish; live looks better. Apply a color then a moment before gel, apply the other an let fuse together.
Barry - is this your mix for the pinlines or the gloss?
I very much have a love hate relationship with resin pinlines. I have found that my best results are when I pull my tape and the resin is still wet - if it’s like peanut butter it will tear - no Bueno.
If you can find it, DMA (dimethylanaline) is the magic elixer, for kicking off resin pinlines. We would use both cobalt and DMA together, to kick heavily pigmented pinlines and pull the tape when still wet. Like the Vitalis ad said, ‘‘a little drop will do ya!’’
the unglossed pin will give you the signal if it can be glossed over, scratch it with you fingernail, if it is NOT fully cured, it will bleed, the cure, tape a 64th away from it and shoot a clear over it, not enough space and resin to drag the color out of it, nothing worse that a great lam and streaks of color going down the rail, I stil have the teeth marks in my ass from seeing a job go to crap before my very eyes
