I have just finished my first resin tint lam. It is a deep red. Its so dark that it has covered up my penciled dimensions.
I just wanted to know what you guys thought about using permanent marker on the lam to re-write the dims. I am a bit worried that it will run when I do the hot coat.
It also might look a bit pixely if it gets sucked into the little weave dents. Im thinking about doing a black resin pin line and logo on the deck and I am concerned about the same things happening to that.
Am I better off doing the dims, pin line and logo after the hot coat and then a gloss. Or can I do it between the lam and hot coat?
I was also toying with the idea of using posca pens (I think they are also called paint pens) for the logo, has anyone used them on a lam before?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, I am super amped to get my board done but I want it to look schmick.
I have found a few other topics that talk about doing a filler coat before the hot coat. I have been having trouble with my boards being a bit on the heavy side. So I would like to avoid any extra weight. I guess doing it all between the hot and gloss would essentially be the same idea, and that wouldn’t add any extra weight.
First up a filler coat is a hot coat A waxed surface to allow sanding.In oz generally called filler coat.Do this sand the board to you desired finish and where you want to put the dimensions lightly rub with 600/800 grade wet and dry paper ( but dry) dust off then use an artline pen for what you want.Looks great,neat professional.If you want to gloss or spray top coat no problems at all just let it dry naturally or use a heat gun ( gently),no rubbing back required,no runs or bleeds.
I have just finished my first resin tint lam. It is a deep red. Its so dark that it has covered up my penciled dimensions.
I just wanted to know what you guys thought about using permanent marker on the lam to re-write the dims. I am a bit worried that it will run when I do the hot coat.
It also might look a bit pixely if it gets sucked into the little weave dents. Im thinking about doing a black resin pin line and logo on the deck and I am concerned about the same things happening to that.
Am I better off doing the dims, pin line and logo after the hot coat and then a gloss. Or can I do it between the lam and hot coat?
I was also toying with the idea of using posca pens (I think they are also called paint pens) for the logo, has anyone used them on a lam before?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, I am super amped to get my board done but I want it to look schmick.
Each time I do a tinted bottom, I brush on the hotcoat, let it dry, then sand. Then -providing that I don’t forget to write the dimensions- I will write them with a Posca pen. White against a dark color, black against a light one. Then gloss. It looks great.
Do Not use a permanent marker it will bleed! and the resin wont kick over it
You can apply the logo on top of the lam, just make sure its down flat then do the sand coat over it Ive done it a few times that way with good results
some folks say to do a lam patch over it but I didnt
as far as remarking the dims you can write in rice paper and do it the same as the logo
or get a signature posca pen and write it on the sand coat them gloss over it
Ive done that also
the below scripture was done on the sand coat as well as the pinlines and the cat
you can lay down a little bit of lam resin where you want to write the dimensions. not alot, just enough to fill up weave and leave you a smooth surface to write on. i believe that you can also use india ink (as mentioned on another thread by kokua) under the hotcoat if you are not planning on doing a gloss coat.
I’ve done rice paper logos between two layers of cloth on the deck, on top of the hot coat by itself and on top of hot coat with a fiberglass patch on top. First is smoothest, I’ve had some trouble with getting it to lay flat on the edges when I don’t put a patch on top, but it never shows through the gloss coat. And as long as you sand down the patch on the edges it won’t show either.
Do the Dimensions with a finer tipped acrylic pen after the hot coat, then seal with Krylon Matte Finish Clear. Print your Logo onto rice paper and cut a piece of cloth to cover it then lam it on to your board. sand lap lines, then hotcoat.
I messed up the laps of my deck lam. So I am thinking I might spray or tint the bottom black. If I cant clean up the sanding.
If I go ahead with the black bottom, I think I will write the dims with white posca on the hot coat and do a black gloss resin pin line on the deck. Then the gloss coat.
Bud that is a sweet looking board, and Kensurf I’m digging that cat.
Surfding I’ll get so photos up soon, I just cant pull myself away from this board.
Howzit grant, Why do you need to put the dems on the board any ways? The main thing is to write them down in a note book and do that with every board you shape/build. It could turn out to be a magic board and then somebody rips it off but you still have the dems written down. If you are doing a gloss then just write them in the sanded hotcoat before it's glossed. Aloha,Kokua
Pigment liner sketch pens are perfect for art, craft, sketching and drawing applications. The permanent pigmented ink allows greater opacity and withstands watercolor washes. The ink is quick drying, smear free and has long write-out length. It's also archival-quality ink so it's fade resistant and acid free. The metal-clad tip assures precise lines against tool edges. Ideal for many surfaces including wood, ceramic, photographs and papier-m‰chŽ. The 4-pack includes assorted line widths of 0.1 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm.
I use pigment Liners: They are acid free and you write on the hotcoat before gloss. If it's a sand finish spray clear acrylic to protect your writing then use a white scotch brite to create a matte finish to blend with the sand coat after its dry.
Have just read all comments,and all have merit. Red ,being a darker colour is always hard to see anything written on it.Just look at surf mags with red or darkish backgrounds.Always a drama to read the credits etc.Why not just fine line brush dimensions on with an acrylic paint in white or other after the sanded coat,then gloss or speed coat and be done with it. It seems some responses become awfully involved at times (imho).If you think a tint is a problem in red try a full pigment.
