Want to do some resin pinlines with epoxy and pigment. Any tips.
planning to sand 240-320 in direction of of line, lay tape and brush on resin.
My main concern is at what point to pull the tap. I’m thinking too soon and its going to run and get messy, too late and I’ll get strings.
As its epoxy I can’t shoot it hot, and following it with a heat gun is going to turn it to liquid and give more chance for runs under the tape.
Yep… have not had good results with poxylines… poly pinline em on the sanded hotcoat is the easiest.
keep it simple… do your pinlining with a high viscosity acrylic paint. i use Liquitex (is that available in the UK?).
just spread it on, pull tape immediately, and let it dry. nice bold colors, and zero runs.
Acrylic paint is the way to go, but if you want to go with epoxy pull up the tape just as the resin is gelling.
Thanks,
Liquitex is what I would normally use, but this is going on an old skool fish and I want a bump on the pins.
I haven’t got any poly resin left, only epoxy and I think there could be bonding issues with poly on poxy.
i like a little bump on my pinlines, too.
answer…two layers of tape. and when you spread on the paint, use a light touch. everyone thinks my pins are resin. always.
Hey woody, I agree with soulstice. Acrylic is the easy way to go, but if you want to do epoxy, here’s how you can get the tape pull right: Get a small piece of plastic or something that resembles sanded epoxy (sanded epoxy being best, of course). Run 5 or 6 lines of masking tape on it, like 3 or 4 mini pinlines. Mix up your resin, add the pigment, and brush the stuff on your masked board, and them onto your test piece. Every 15-30 minutes, pull one of the pieces of tape on the test piece. When it’s the right consistency (no strings, no sags), pull tape on the board. Done.
Only thing is that the bump is substantial, so you’ll be wetsanding that gloss coat by hand near/on the pins…
JSS
Greg Loehr has an accelerator for use with his epoxy that speeds things up. I don’t know if it is compatable with your brand or if it is available where you are.
Soulstice - I’ll give that some consideration but I think my heart is set on true resin pins.
Max - Great Idea I was thinking about the same thing.
John - Yer I’m using RR with fast hardner, I don’t think that the accelorator is avalable here yet, were a bit behind the rest of the world. I was thinking I would just leave it in sitting in the cup for a while till it gets past the watery stage. planning on using a polyurethane gloss so if it comes out well I’ll go straight to compound.
Anyway I’m not able to put fins on, do the leash loop and fill coat till thiss weekend and wont be sanding till the weekend after that so plenty of time to think it through, do some tests and change my mind.
Thanks for all the tips, I’ll let you know how it goes, so far I’m really please with how things are shaping up, hopefuly be a nice looking board.
Never worked with epoxy (yet) but I hear laminators sometimes briefly microwave the base resin (never the hardener) to make it less viscous. Conversely, could you chill your colored resin after mixing and achieve this effect, or would the cure be too slow? The chilled pin resin will come up to room temperature relatively quickly once it has been spread thin.
Woody,
Honolulu is right. If you microwave the resin for around 1-2 sec per ounce/29.57ml of resin before mixing in the hardener, it brushes on much easier, and sets up more quickly. Watch the nose areas, as the rocker can thin the pinline out. Use enough pigment that if this happens, you won’t get a red pinline everywhere, and a pink one on the nose… ask me how I know…
JSS