What is the process to obtaining clean resin pinlines. I have tried pigments, double layering the bottom tape edge to build a resistant drain edge, adding milled fibers to thicken the resin, etc., but for some reason I just can’t seem to get it right. Any information (tips) would helpful. Thanks.
There are many culprits that can be responsible for your problem pins. What resin are you using? Reichold gloss What tape are you using? Scotch 233 is recommended How fine is the sand job on the board? a rough sand finish will allow the resin to creep along the scratch pattern. #220 makes a clean surface for the tape to suck down on nice and tight. Use a tongue depressor to rub the tape along the inside edges so it is tight on the sanded board. If you are pulling the tape while the resin is wet, watch the batch you used for the pin and as it starts to thicken pull the tapes quickly. Pins that are let set up before pulling the tape are a bit more difficult, but let the resin get firm but not too hard. Pull each tape away from the line, if there is a raggedness to the pin, fold a piece of #100 sandpaper over the edge of a razor blade and slide it along the edge of the pin and slowly erase the fuzz. This also works for the lines pulled wet. Make sure there is sufficient pigment in the resin so that the coat of resin can be as thin as possible, but not too thin or the wax won’t rise and it will be sticky and bleed when glossed over.
What is the process to obtaining clean resin pinlines. I have tried > pigments, double layering the bottom tape edge to build a resistant drain > edge, adding milled fibers to thicken the resin, etc., but for some reason > I just can’t seem to get it right. Any information (tips) would helpful. > Thanks. The secret to fine opaque pinlines : Step ONE Bear tape make a resin resistant 1 cm plastic tape (great for curvey designs ) Step TWO When you mix the resin and pigment check it first ( ANY THING BLACKER ) You will need to add (DMA) DiMethalAcetate (promoter) to get a very fast drying time say one drop per 10 ml resin , mix well. Step Three HARDENER *Lots Ov * a hot mix wax and styrene get it on fast in a temperature of 75F WARNING NEVER MIX DMA AND MEKP ITS A CHEMICAL EXPLOSIVE AND YOULL BE SORRY! At Fat Penguin we surf for fun hope this helps. http://www.spacegroove.com/fatpenguin/
Scrap any of the previous info, you don’t want anything to do with DMA.The correct term is dimethelanylene. There is no need to get pins to go off that fast. A novice needs as much time as possible, Sam Cody does the most beautiful lines and still does it the old fashioned way, slowly. We too surf for fun, but build boards professionally for 40 years.
Scrap any of the previous info, you don’t want anything to do with > DMA.The correct term is dimethelanylene. There is no need to get pins to > go off that fast. A novice needs as much time as possible, Sam Cody does > the most beautiful lines and still does it the old fashioned way, slowly. > We too surf for fun, but build boards professionally for 40 years. this guy knows what he’s talking about. I’ve seen his boards (and so have most who’ve been around surfboards for a few years), pure quality… and Sam Cody is, and has been for more than 30 years, THE MAN on all things related to making a surfboard look beautiful after it’s been shaped… at least in San Diego. A great artist and craftsman. http://www.albersbrothers.com