Resin Problem?

General Discussion
1

I just laminated a board, and I used polyester resin, and uv catalyst, and the thicker areas didn’t (rails) didn’t turn clear, they’re still blue. Any idea?

I mixed the resin, 1 gallon, and a gallon packet a few days ago and then once more for good measure today before laminating.

2

Did you walk the board out into the sunlight? If you did, did you flip the board over in the sunlight so the rails could get some sun? If you didn’t, the uv will take longer to kick.

3

Yes, I left it in the sun (really sunny here today) for about a half hour, and flipped it, its rock hard. I even sanded the laps. btw, I’m freelapping if it matters. Still can’t figure out that cutlapping dealy. But it still has a bluish tint on the thicker areas.

4

DawnPatrolNY,

      If you leave too much resin, some times the laps will pick up the tint of the resin.

Mike

5

Damn… Is it fixable?

Thanks so much for the replies.

6

So did it go off or not? I’m assuming the thick blue part of the rail your talking about is the nose or tail corners, not so much the mid section. If thats the case your going to have to grind those areas down a bit, and shove the lap line down into the foam on the rest.

If the board kicked off, go ahead with the rest of it. The blue will eventually turn clear.

7

ya if it puddles you will get blue tint

live and learn

8 
Howzit DawnPatrol, 1/2 hr in the sun should have kicked off the whole board without flipping it since the UV rays refract and hit the whole board. I need only about 5-10 mins before flipping the board. Waveslider has the answer to the problem,too much resin left in the rails, plus that makes for weak glass job in the rail area.Aloha,Kokua
9

This is my first time using silmar, I never had it happen with suncure, (which is green to start)

10

It pretty much did kick in about 10 minutes, I left it in the sun and flipped it because it was still blue. Then did the top, and the same thing happened. Kicked well enough to sand without a problem. So, since this is a present for my brother, how can I hide this uglyness? Why doesn’t the hotcoat do the same thing (which is essentially a puddle of resin)? Or will the hotcoat tint also?

Quote:

Howzit DawnPatrol, 1/2 hr in the sun should have kicked off the whole board without flipping it since the UV rays refract and hit the whole board. I need only about 5-10 mins before flipping the board. Waveslider has the answer to the problem,too much resin left in the rails, plus that makes for weak glass job in the rail area.Aloha,Kokua</blockquote></div>
11

Attached is my kids board I did last month using uv hardner and silmar (blue resin)

the only blue area’s I got were at the future fin boxes cause I put them in after hot coat (oops duh) and put football shaped cloth on them which made puddles a bit (no biggie to me I like blue)

I’m a novice lammer/glasser not a pro by any meens, but this poly board came out dam clear

so when you lam make sure you squeegie out as much as you can

you werent using a brush ? were you?

regards

Ken

12

I just checked and the blueness is all clear now …I havent looked for the blue to clear up but the boards a month old so somewhere between then and now it cleared up.

atached a crappy close up pic of fins right after polish

Ken

13 
Howzit DawnPatrol, My UV resin always had a greenish hue to it but it always turned clear when kicked off. But with any resin, if it's to thick it will look a little darker due to the depth of the thickness. Just remember to squeegee your laps really nice and even when laminating. Aloha,Kokua
14

Thanks for your help guys!

Update: I put the hotcoat on the bottom, and you can hardly see any tinting on the laps.