Resin question

I’ve heard the terms “resin bead” and “built up resin edge” used when talking about surfboard design. Can anyone enlighten me on the meaning of these terms and how they work? Thanks!

I’ve heard the terms “resin bead” and “built up resin > edge” used when talking about surfboard design. Can anyone enlighten > me on the meaning of these terms and how they work?>>> Thanks! - When you tape off for the hot coat you run the tape in the tail right to where the edge is. You actually can create a little ledge with the tape to hold more resin right on the edge so the sander has plenty of material to work with to give you a HARD edge. Just a side note for new shapers: When you’re fine sanding your edges, try not to make the tail edges razor hard as this is sometimes difficult for laminators to lay up without getting bubbles in that area. Rely on the hot coater to do the aforementioned resin bead for the sharpness.

Too much of a beaded resin edge can be a bad thing. While it feels groovy to run your fingers along it, it is important that the edge be the same as the shape. I’ve seen some edges recently that basically filled up the tucked edge with resin. A “knifey” edge is bad. It is good for the sander and the hot coater to work out the details. Too much resin for the sander can be frustrating, too little as well. I always recommend that novice shapers handsand their own boards. This can be a great learning experience. Ask the glass shop in advance if this is okay. If they are really busy they probably won’t want you in there using the room. Also, it can be a bad crutch to think, “Oh, if my edge doesn’t come out in the shape, I’ll just have the hot coater fix it.”

When you tape off for the hot coat you run the tape in the tail right to > where the edge is. You actually can create a little ledge with the tape to > hold more resin right on the edge so the sander has plenty of material to > work with to give you a HARD edge. Just a side note for new shapers: When > you’re fine sanding your edges, try not to make the tail edges razor hard > as this is sometimes difficult for laminators to lay up without getting > bubbles in that area. Rely on the hot coater to do the aforementioned > resin bead for the sharpness. It is a gret idea to make a board start to finish so you can see things from a shaper and glassers point of view. Not only does it go for the sharp edge along the tail, but put too sharp of an edge on a channels ans see what your glasser has to say to you when you complain about either too much resin in the channel or air bubbles in them. The key is to "slightly’ round off a sharp edge so the glass with wrap around it. Slighly might mean a pass with 150 grit sand paper if using 4 oz. cloth or it might mean a few passes if you are using 6 or double 4 oz. Note: the glasser will take the libety to round an edge and he’ll put it back. He an his hotcoater know how to tape an edge and how much of a bead to leave. “Don’t put to much buld up the the tail edge next time.”—heard in glass shop around the world.