Has anyone tried both? Was is whiter? Did it help hide the laps at all if it was whiter?
Resin Research Resin is clear not white. The CE resin is blue in the bottle but goes on clear. If you want a whiter board start with a whiter blank or add white pigment. It’s hard to belive that a person with a surfboard company who sells fin systems would ask such a question. As Deanbo you cussed me out many times in public and in private. Still can’t hide those laps???..you’re a Bro not a Pro…Get back in the shop and sand those laps…Bro…
Ray,
light blue is the brightest shade of white you can get. Ask anyone who knows colour from their ass. White is not clear. Clearer resin makes laps harder to hide no matter how good you are at taking down laps, hence the laps showing up as slightly darker on very clear resin. That was about it.
now,now boy! you both are wrong!
Red orange yellow green blue indigo violet. I don’t want to know the color of my ass!
Lighten-up guys.
Be careful with that CE resin…You never know what you’ll get!!!
CE resin with a little sugar…
Post photos…share the stoke…Where’s Chipfins???
Hello Dean ,
I consider every single person on Swaylock’s to be my friend. That includes you. As a friend it’s OK to disagree. I talk from experience …trial and error…the school of hard knocks…
Please take some of that book smart stuff out into the shop and see if it works. You can talk all day long…show me the goods…Sorry Dean…white boards turn yellow no matter what resin or foam you use…that’s a proven fact…
a good blend of modern tech and old school know how…That’s what guys like you and me strive for…
…This talk about clear resin and overlaps…I don’t understand where you’re going…I don’t have these problems with “hiding the lap”. Hopefully someone else can guide you in the right direction.
Ray
Hello again Ray,
maybe I should make myself clearer. White is not necessarily the same thing as clear. White can be fully opaque or it can completely translucent. Light blue becomes whiter the lighter it gets. This is the only colour that will do this. Try it with red and all you will get is pink. Blue dye is what is in Resin Research CE as far as I am aware, and I’m assuming it turns slightly opaque white when cured.
If it does, I thought it might hide the laps on epoxy a little better as epoxy is clearer than polyester in my experience. Hence laps show up more on epoxy than poly, or least in my experience. Maybe I should just trade my soft pad and 80 grit for a 5" grinder and grinding disc.
Old guys call it over thinking.
dean if your hacking away at weave with a die grinder off course the laps are gunna be visible.
your problem is obviously from resin rich laps that are over worked and handled. do cut laps , cut them at the right time. you dont even touch the weave AT ALL . all is done is to knock the edge off the lap.if you have to go anywhere near the weave then the problem is in your glassing technique
even if the lap is slightly visible then it doesnt matter as it looks NEAT.
its arguable blue died resin is whiter under lights( maybe in a shop fluro). a clear resin looks just as good.
Unfortunately I’ve never got to compare Resin Research to Resin Research CE. Some of you might have. Did your board come out any brighter and yellow slower? Brightness and yellowing seems to be the big deal these days. Or was there no great difference. I think foam is where most yellowing comes from anyway but every bit helps I suppose.
I’ve done both, and think that a freshly laminated and hotcoated board done with both resins seems equally white to me. I don’t notice a difference in brightness, but it could be just me. As for yellowing, it seems the regular RR might yellow a little faster than the CE. I have a 1-year-old board that’s CE over PU that still looks pretty white compared to what my regular RR looked like after a year, as I recall thinking, “wow… look how yellow it got.”
What I do know is that CE is the way to go over PU foam. Pretty much a must unless you paint the crap out of it or go with an opaque lamination.
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Unfortunately I've never got to compare Resin Research to Resin Research CE. Some of you might have. Did your board come out any brighter and yellow slower? Brightness and yellowing seems to be the big deal these days. Or was there no great difference. I think foam is where most yellowing comes from anyway but every bit helps I suppose.
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Your posts are like a Merry-Go-Round...............
You need to buy some Resin Research and do some long term tests. That's what I'm doing.
The foam in California is not an issue. The CE is much better than the old stuff. Now we have KK....More testing....
Post photos Dean...here's what I'm working on.......
In the "clear finish" industry there is a term know as "water white". Any thing else is generally considered to be "amber by one degree or another. UV inhibiters are added to most exterior "clear finishes", even resins. E- glass = hidden laps. S-glass = noticeable laps. Other types of hybrid fabrics have good or bad characteristics concerning laps.
I cut- lap when I use S-glass and free- lap when I use E. I use a die grinder with a 2" or 3" disk. My E-glass laps never show. Every quality or production glass shop in Callifornia or Hawaii uses a die grinder on their laps, free or cut. They can't all be wrong. If you have to cut lap with E-glass it's generally because you are a novice and have not taken the time to learn proper glassing technique of rail laps and because you are afraid of the best kept secret in the industry ie the right angle die grinder. Professionals don't over work the lap when glassing or grinding. So they aren't afraid of die grinders. Therefore their freelaps are generally not a problem and a cutlap(at least with E) is not necessary. You'd get laughed out of the average glass shop in Calif. or Hawaii if you started to tape off for a cutlap on an E lamination, Poly or Epoxy. NEAT is not seeing your laps at all.
Interesting topic....I wonder anyone ever tried adding optical brightners to the resin mix? (the stuff they add to washing powders to make girls undies glow when in a nightclub :). Only seems sensible that these board might appear extremly white in sunlight. I've seen chipfins GLOW in the dark fins, so i guess it could be possible.
Dean.. I think that its eayer to hide laps with pigmented resin because when light hits the lam surface, the pigment absorbs some light and reflects the remainder, so the light does not reach foam. I think when lamination is clear most of the light is absorbed and reflected by the foam...however the lam (even though it appears clear) will also absorb some of the light passing through it in both directions (ie, to the foam and then back to your eye) Since the lap area is thicker, there is more matter there, hence that area absorbs more light so it appears darker.
your threads make me wonder if you are obtuse or just a total troll…
hi mcding i agree with you . cut laps are easier for novice glassers to get a better result.
it takes lots of practice to get a clean freelap and lots of resin so it rolls off the rail in a clean bead. i prefer to save my resin and change my technique as it saves money and im not in hurry.
i do mostly colour work so cut laps are neccesary. i practice my cut laps on my clear boards to get better cutlaps. makes sense to me but i guess not to a proffesional as your self.
i can use a die grinder easily in fact i can do things with a die grinder that would make you poo your pants. i carve jade wax bone in detailed and realistic carvings. i think i can handle a bit of fucking fiberglass. so congratulations you have mastered the first step of using a die grinder. when you ready to progress to the next level maybe you can give me a PM
huie also does cutlaps on his clears and recomemded i do this. so as the only swayylocker who has taken the time to actually teach me anything of value i think i will listen to him.
im yet to see and industry pro show the way laps are done with a die grinder. so until that time ill just assume that they come on swaylocks because they are angry at working in a factory there whole lives and want to take there frustrations out on others.
im looking forward to getting laughed out of a shop when i eventually get around to visiting one( ive actually never been in to one on account of surfboard builders egos dont leave much room in there for visitors).
so how about you post some photos of all the marvelous things you can do with a die grinder and ill post mine and let swaylockers decide which one of us knows how to use the tool
and lots of resin so it rolls off the rail in a clean bead.------------- Who has lots of resin rolling of the rail?--------------Not me !----------------- i do mostly colour work so cut laps are neccesary. i practice my cut laps on my clear boards to get better cutlaps. but i guess not to a proffesional as your self--------------------- Your are right you ARE not a professional as myself--------------------------------in fact i can do things with a die grinder that would make you poo your pants.---------------------- “Shit my pants” not likly! Bad Mexican food like they have DU is the only thing that makes me “Shit my pants”------------------ so congratulations you have mastered the first step of using a die grinder.------------ I have mastered the only step regarding a die grinder that I care to master.---------------
i think i will listen to him.---------------------------- Good idea! That’ll keep you in your place.-------------------------------
---------------------im looking forward to getting laughed out of a shop when i eventually get around to visiting one( ive actually never been in to one on account of surfboard builders egos dont leave much room in there for visitors).---------------- Ha! Ha! That pretty much explains it. With your attitude you’d never get in the door.-----------------------
---------------so how about you post some photos of all the marvelous things you can do with a die grinder and ill post mine and let swaylockers decide which one of us knows how to use the tool--------------- I know how to use my “tool” and when and where. Postin’ up picks to “piss up” to you is like riding Big Surf: I’ve got nothing to prove. Been there and done that. But you go girl. You’re bound to impress somebody.
Hi McDing,
neat is exactly what I am after. Do you use a hard, medium or soft Roloc pad for your lap edges? Also have you done any clears in RR CE as well as RR? Did you notice any difference in cosmetics straight off the bat? I ask this because when I tried blue poly instead of just clear poly the board seemed to look a little bit neater. Even though my glassing was exactly the same.