Today was the first time I have worked with resin research epoxy, so far Im very impressed with it.
One thing that took me by surprise was how hot the remaining resin in my container kicked after the lamination.
As I am doing the old style FCS plug installation on this board it got me wondering if the amount of exotherm could cause an issue while doing the install, obviously when working with polyester I cut the catalyst right down to avoid it getting too hot during an install, but with epoxy it has to be 100:45 at all times.
I Understand adding white pigment to the resin for the install will slow down the curing time and presumably reduce exotherm but if anyone can give me some tips to reduce exotherm during the instal or put my mind at rest it will be aporeciated.
Pooling epoxy in eps is definately an issue. I’ve had it melt through to the deck. Not so much with poly urethane but why risk it? You can mitigate by adding fiber in the mix. I use small ice bags over the install. Separated with wax paper so you don’t get water from condensation on your work. Mike
Fin boxes that don’t take a lot of resin are also good. Gearbox seems to take very little resin. FCS Fusion take a bit more particularly if you fill the voids on the bottom of the boxes. I’ve had issues with Probox; maybe they take a a bit more resin and it gets hotter? I agree with rooster, use ice bags on warm days.
When you set the boxes in foam, the epoxy doesn’t need to be any stronger than the foam around it. So I add a fair amount of micro balloons to the mix (as well as some thickening agent) to reduce the density and thereby reduce the exotherm. It also gives you a nice white color around the foam and reduces the amount of resin used. And it reduces weight. Which of course makes for easier paddling and less fatigue. And it makes the board go faster and gives you better airs. Ok, I’m over selling. Ignore those last parts.
The board is looking nice, and extremely WHITE, extremely impressed with this stuff, the last thing I need is yellowing of the foam around the fin plug installs, so I will follow some of the advice that you guys have kindly given- I expect that I will go for a combination of adding a small amount of cabosil and doing hucks double pour method, after a few boards with this resin i will be able to get an idea of what i will be able to get away with regarding the exotherm heat. Ice packs are unfortunately not going to be practical as I dont have a freezer near the workshop.
I am expecting this 6’2’’ x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2 will weigh out at around 2.65kg after sanding which is what i was looking for (I don;t want this too light, but slightly lighter than a standard polyester) Blank used PU Millennium blue.
Cool here lately, the only downside is the flip times in cooler temps- It really has slowed things down a lot compared to UV PE at these temps, glassed out and hotcoated nicely without any problems, If it wasn’t for the flip times I would use Resin Research as standard. Will have to try it again in some hotter temperatures, unfortunately the workshop has too much ‘natural ventilation’ to fully control temperature with a heater which would be the ideal.