my next board i will be attempting a resin tint on the bottom which wraps onto the deck. the deck will be clear. what’s the best way to lay out the tape line so that the lines are nice and even. …lay out the tape then use the rail line tool to draw a line on top of the tape, then cut?? or draw light line, then follow with tape??
Teddy: Take your pick, you’ve got it down on the options. I like to use the cheater rail tool and scribe a light scratch line with a point or pencil line to tape up too. You can brush the pencil lead off after you lay it down and still see it well enough to tape. Once you get a good tape line (the key is GOOD TAPE)push it down well with a tongue blade then finish your maskoff with the painter’s masking paper and another line of tape. Tom S.>>> my next board i will be attempting a resin tint on the bottom which wraps > onto the deck. the deck will be clear. what’s the best way to lay out the > tape line so that the lines are nice and even. …lay out the tape then > use the rail line tool to draw a line on top of the tape, then cut?? or > draw light line, then follow with tape??
when using the cheater tool…is it better to go slow and steady, or make a fast pass so it doesn’t wobble? i made the tool yesterday and was practicing. i have a problem with keeping the line nice. it has dips and gets uneven. maybe some more practice…what type of pencil works best for doing pinlines before the gloss coat? soft pencil?
Teddy: I like a soft pencil, then I brush off until I have a very light line to follow. Hmm… the cheater tool and using it to do pinlines. Tough to describle, maybe on the fast side but you have to let the paint flow keep up with how fast you drag the tip. Nice thing about paint pens is that with an acetone soaked rag you can clean the slate and try again. Steady is important too and also keeping the angle of the vertical arm of the tool uniform. Tom S.>>> when using the cheater tool…is it better to go slow and steady, or > make a fast pass so it doesn’t wobble? i made the tool yesterday and was > practicing. i have a problem with keeping the line nice. it has dips and > gets uneven. maybe some more practice…what type of pencil works best > for doing pinlines before the gloss coat? soft pencil?
teddy- use an eraser to make a line down the rails and then tape off that way youre not marking up the board. dont even have to use the cheater tool. just hold in hand with thumb and pointer using your mid finger as a guid along the rail. tape and glass then cut or grind your taped laps off. hope this helps any. later Josh
ok tom…i appreciate all of the info. you have given me. you have no idea how much it has helped me grow as a shaper/glasser. here’s another ? for ya… how smooth must the lam. coat be? will it all cure the same shade? or will it be darker in heavier coatings? finally…what’s the best way to smooth the laps? can i just use clear sanding resin? thanks in advance…
Teddy: I believe what you are asking is what about the uneveness in the color or tint density that you see after your tinted lam job. Try to squeegee the lam out as evenly as possible here. Tints kind of force you to pay attention to your squeegee technique and getting a good wet out but not too wet. If you see a density change or mottling after lamination you will notice it even more once it’s hotcoated, glossed and polished. Man, my first blue tint looked like sh*t. Think about taking a small cup of your tinted lam resin and keeping it aside, uncatalyzed. Do you lam job and then go back with the extra cup of tinted resin and maybe a little more clear lam resin mixed in (a little dilution in color is OK.) Use a dry brush to even out some of the unevenly tinted areas with this extra mix. You are going to hot coat as normal, using clear resin. Take a little extra time on the cutlap edges to knock them down low so the don’t cause problems (air and sandthroughs) on the top lamination. Right angle air die grinder or dremel tool with right angle adapter works well here. Sounds like a great project you are into. Be sure to post some pics. Tom S. ok tom…i appreciate all of the info. you have given me. you have no > idea how much it has helped me grow as a shaper/glasser. here’s another ? > for ya… how smooth must the lam. coat be? will it all cure the same > shade? or will it be darker in heavier coatings? finally…what’s the best > way to smooth the laps? can i just use clear sanding resin? thanks in > advance…