Hey guys, I finished my first board and it came out great, I painted right on the foam for it. Now I want to do a fish with a resin tint. Yellow sounds like its the easiest, and I think that would look cool too. I was just contemplating though, whether I could paint on the foam and do a resin tint. I was thinking maybe paint part of it blue, then if I put a yellow tint over it, would the blue part look green and the rest stay yellow?
Does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks,
Chris
It all depends on how transparent your resin tint was. Color will always affect another color if it sits on top of and has some level of transparency.
The level of color change isn the base foam paint depends on how opaque your tint is. A very opaque tint and the blue will look very green. A very light tranparent tint and the blue will have only a shimmer of green to it.
If you ahve access to phtoshop or Illustrator, both of these programs are great for showign just how transparency affects color. Of course in real world situations you have many variables, but…it’s a good place to start nonettheless.
Drew
So, to keep the tint translucent about what pigment to resin ratio should I use? I know I will have to do it on a scrap first, but I really have no idea what to start with. I see that the pigment comes in 2 oz. sizes. Is that enough for a quart of resin or like 5 gallons? Can someone put me in the ball park? Thanks.
Hey chris,
Sure you can. Check this board out. We airbrushed the skulls first then did a swirl over them. I never measure my pigment so i cant help you there. A dab for tint, a glob for opaque. haha good luck.
Austin
I tend to go light on the pigment. You can always add more to your resin, but you can never take some out.
You need very littel pigment to get transparency. For a quart, I’d start with half a tablespoon…5 CC I think.
Have your scrap of foam ready, with several scraps of the same cloth that you will be using. take a pencil and draw on the foam scrap. then simply add a littel bit of pigment into you resin and test a scrap of cloth by glassing it oer where you wrote. If it’s not dark enough, or to light, then simply add more.
Drew
Howzit Austin, The thing I’m wondering is, we know that when you use yellow paint over blue paint it turns green when the resin hits it and blends the 2 colors but will the same thing happen when you use yellow tint over blue paint. Makes me wonder if the same reaction will happen? I think a test would be in order. Now yours came out really nice but it’s red tint(?) over a black airbrush so there’s no color blending involved. Aloha, Kokua
I got a decent result with a full board turquoise air spray. I’m thinking about snazzing it up though, and looking for some advice.
Tentative plan is an opaque white resin swirl on the bottom, lapped to the deck with a pinline. White pigment swirled into clear resin. or maybe vice versa (so the blue shows through the clear)… What’s the best way to avoid paint peeling away when removing the taped off painted deck? I don’t think clear acrylic spray will protect from 3m 233 tape… Maybe first a brush a line of resin along the lap line and let it cure before taping off the deck?
Thanks people!
Don’t have anything to add to the current discussion, but Bud, I really like that board!
The tape will pull up the paint. You have to burnish down the tape when prepping to do a cut lap, because if you don’t, the color will bleed under the tape. This will guarantee that some of your paint job will pull up when you remove the tape.
If you have saved some of the same paint color you used to paint the board turquoise, do this: After you sanded/ground the cut lap smooth, mask off your bottom/rail lamination and re-paint the areas where the paint was pulled up. Let the paint dry, remove the mask and your ready to glass the deck.
I’ve done boards where I’ve painted the bottom and rails, left the deck masked off, so the laminator can do a resin swirls over the paint work, and use the masked panels edge to trim the cut lap. After the laminator has done his thing, I’ll mask the bottom and rail at the cut lap, and spray something in the deck panel like a solid or a fade to center. Later I’ll pinline the cut lap on the sanded hot coat before it gets glossed. If the board doesn’t get a gloss coat, couple of coats of Krylon Crystal clear will seal the pinline.
Howzit Bud, The Krylon will work to seal the paint but when you pull the tape use a hair dryer or heat gun on the tape as you pull it and it won't pull any of the paint off since the heat melts the adhesive. I have done this many ,many times and it works great. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks Atomized & Kokua! (& everysurfer). This stuff is pure gold for a backyard guy like me. Though I’m now having second thoughts about cosmetic screw ups on a board for a friend… the air brush came out pretty good so now I’m leaning back toward leaving this one as it is, and doing the experimenting on my personal boards.
....As I stumble through the awesome world of surfboard building.......I often wonder about all the crazy color work out there.....I'm a garage builder...I had to go back to 2005 to grab this link.......Airbrush yellow base, the rest with resin..crappy photos.....I've a done a few that way....I bet Atomized and Kokua have 1000's of tricks... Fun stuff
http://www.quivermag.com/boards/stingray-2005-0
Ray
In this link the Blue Surfboard in my right hand was air brushed first and then resin swirled......so the answer to your question is yes....you can "Resin tint over painted foam"....
http://www.quivermag.com/boards/shipmanstingray-2007
Stingray
Here’s a board I did a few years ago. Blue painted foam / blue tint in lam / blue tint in hotcoat / blue tint in gloss.
Looks like there’s a 1/4" deep blue shell around the board. Super cool looking. Be careful sanding though!
~Brian