Grabbed the below photo from surfysurfy. Can someone who has done this before describe the process for achieving this darker tail patch. Lam with tint, then patch with tint, then set fin boxes and clear patch? Unlike the photo, I will be using Futures.
I also have a resin tinted Robert August long board with Futures side bites. It has the darker tail patch but it seems the boxes where intalled before the lam since the you can see tinted resin covering the flanges. So there seems to be more than one way to do this. I am looking for easiest with least margin of error since this is my first tint.
After inspecting my longboard I was planning to install boxes, then tape off the tail patch and lam with tint. Then do the full bottom lam with cutlap and tint. I like to do the tail patch first as its easier for me to avoid tenting with the Futures boxes. And if they do get bubbles I can fix them before doing the full bottom lam. Thank you.
A patch under a full layor of cloth lets say a 4 oz patch cut out to the shape you desire and a 6 oz full board layor. Deck side taped off for cutlaps of course. Slillfully apply tinted resin with squeegee and the color will of course deepen as you desire especially with darker tints. of coursae that board also got double cutlaps as you can see in the rails. The fin boxes were added after lamination and capped over with clear resin and cloth.
Lam bottom with patch. With cutlapped deck, lam deck with tint, cutlapped bottom. Hotcoat deck. Install boxes. Feather in patches with grinder, hot coat bottom, sand.
I’m asking because I could use some positive energy in the fact that;
FCS “fusion” installation instruction basically says “on a shaped blank”.
Yeap I done it, bust!
Been doing this for a while now and have found that cutting in after lam has set up well, eliminates air bubbles and gets you spot on with what matters.
I’m sure I am not alone.
Note with the tint lam the boxes if cut in after are white and more consistent than the tint…
Something got lost in the translation. But whenever you use two layers of tinted cloth (tinted the same) ; second layer always comes up darker. Just like doubled up cut-laps appear darker. You can under glass any fin box or system if you want to take the time to do it right. Those boxes were obviously installed after the lam. Even Futures can be installed after the lam if need be.
The tint color is held by the cloth as McDing said. The heavier the cloth and/or layers the deeper (and more even) a tint will be. So if using lighter cloth more pigment is needed. Very light glassing (single 4oz) will invariably produce a blotchy tint unless you’re skilled. Always use black boxes if glassing over them with a tint. Since the side boxes are crossed by the lap, it’s difficult to get a clean line on white ones as there’s usually bleed under the tape. Or just put them in post-glass and cap with a clear patch, stronger in my opinion.
yup just patches over, FCS Fusion, Futures anything press glass can be done. just glear over the patches, if its sanded finish feather them in, be careful you dont sand into your tinted glass. Hot Coat.
Board 5, but first time resin tint lam going ok so far. Not totally uniform but not too bad. Deck gets lam tomorrow.
Regarding the clear patch over the to be installed Futures boxes, any advice for feathering the patch without getting into the tinted lam or leaving clear weave exposed? Can I use a cheater coat? I was hoping one layer of 4oz over the entire tail would be sufficient, rather than footballs. Should I lap the rail with this patch or stop it at the edge? Quads, then a single fin short box after…Set me straight…Thanks for all the great advice.
Footballs are OK, but I would just use one piece and take it to the rail edge or apex and not lap it… With a die grinder and a 3M Roloc disk, you can clean up the fin boxes and edge of the cloth patch pretty easily and not damage your tint. Just a light touch and once around the block should do it… Then hotcoat and sand. But the clean up and sanding can also be done after hot coat. Lowel
