i am getting ready to do a cutlap resin tint next week. transparent red deck and rails with a clear bottom.
my concern is the overlaping on the relief cuts. it will show up darker where the laps touch, correct?
what is the best technique for doing the relief cuts so that they dont overlap or have spaces between them. or should i overlap them and then sand them prior to laminating the rest of the board?
any thoughts or tips are appreciated.
brasco
No need for relief cuts except at the nose and tail corners. Cut the corners so they fit perfectly, not much overlap if any. You are correct about extra thickness showing up as a darker area. If this is your first tint job and you are going after red, you’ll have a bunch more problems than just the flap relief cuts…don’t worry about the flap so much. You need to worry about getting every single scratch out of the blank, and worry about using even presure when laminating, and rolling the rails. Also make sure you use enough colorant. if you think you have enough, use a bit more. red looks blood / beat red in the bucket…almost black. There is only one color of red, anything less will look like pink.
If you use opaque red, you might get away with a lot more sins.
Good luck.
Resinhead has good advise about getting a red tint even, I get nervous just thinking about it using straight tints. A trick that Wayne Miyata used on red tints: Mix red opaque 25% with the red tint. Makes a better red than straight tint, easier to judge intensity in the bucket, less uneveness. Don’t get cheap with the pigment mix, use a lot and compensate the catalyst accordingly. Wear your lucky glassing shoes also.
Hey Brasco ,
Go for it!..Resinhead and PeteC have helped me out so many times…it’s amazing!
If you don’t understand what they say ask questions or send one of them a PM.
Yellow is easy. Extra clear or some white(foam) it’s still yellow…With red you might get pink… I’m using pigments ,are you sure you have “tints”? I’ve seen some insane resin tints by the pros…
Here’s a link to one of my better glass jobs http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=372097;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
The photos hide all the flaws. I wasted a lot of resin mixing the color I wanted. A lot of color went on the floor…
You can do it!
Ray
resinhead
first, thanks for taking the time to help me out.
second, there are some imperfections in the blank. there were some pinholes in the blank which are visible. will these show up as dark spots if i use the red? i am not against using another color which may be more forgiving. yellow??? any recommendations?
also, i am just starting to get to the point where i am competent (not good) at laminating, so your comments about even pressure kind of concern me. any additional suggestions?
thanks again for your time
brasco
pete c
thanks bro. great idea on mixing in some opaque in with the tint, and i will be sure to add extra catalyst.
thanks again pete.
brasco
ray,
i appreciate the encourgement. i am using pigments. the kind you use to tint paint. i have used them in some resin tints that had different colors throughout. this is my first attempt at a solid color tint.
what do you think would happen if i do a “cheat” coat of clear resin on the foam before i lay the cloth and the colored resin? would help to seal some of the imperfections in the blank i mentioned above? is that cheating?
brasco
I’d say: “bad idea”: tint won’t cover as well as on bare foam. Forget it.
I have heard of people spraying red acrylic paint first before glassing with red tint in order to get a more even color. Might help “hide” pinholes, too. Not sure.
Using paint tints is looking for trouble, IMHO. Even with special resin tints it’s already hard to pull out clean…
Brasco, The pinholes will show as dark spots that’s just the way it is. Every tinted board has them, you just have to look hard sometimes. Filling the holes will (whatever filler) only make spots bigger. using spackle or resindust, or dried seal powder will only fill the blank with a dissimilar material and make the problem worse…read: the resin soaks up differently, or with resin fill, wont soak up at all. it usually shows up as a lighter hole with a halo around it…instead of just a dark spot. Dark spots are acceptable, everybody knows it’s not a shaping or glassing flaw. So no points taken away.
The thing about tints is you got one shot at it. No filler cheater coat, no spackle filler, no scratches, no lap lines, no relief cuts, no nothing. Just you and the foam, mano y mano, man vs wild, etc, etc. Everything cometogetheratonce. All your scratches, bubbles in the blank, rail laps, catalyst kick times, super deep concaves, raised stringer that are not cut flush with the foam, foam that teared along the stringer from the block plane…it all become real clear in a matter of minutes.
don’t let this scare you, it’s not meant to be scarry. Just make sure you have everything the best as possible, and have all your tools set out before laminating. Also make sure you have more than enough resin mixed up to do the job. It’s still just like glassing a clear board.
Brasco
this may help a little and if anyone thinks different please educate me. for I am still learning.
when I do resin tint or colors I dont blow off the blank just dust off with brush
that way the holes stay filled with foam dust
Did you guys catch that??? Mr. Resinhead up to no good again…go back and read it…
“…using spackle or resindust, or dried seal powder…”
Where do you get dried seal powder? La Jolla maybe?
What’s up Resinhead…Bear skulls to thick…had to go back to baby seals?
Ha Ha Ha!!! Where’s Chipfish…
This might apply to an adjacent thread on holes in blanks as well…
I’ve heard rumors of guys spackling the surface of certain brand of polyurethane blanks known to suck up a lot of resin. If the worm holes and gouges were filled and then the entire blank was sealed with spackle, would it take the color better?
Obviously spot repairs tend to remain visible but what if the whole blank is coated evely with the stuff before laminating?
After reading the bear vs. the fisherman thread I have a new vigor to eliminate sea mammals. I have installed a death ray on my ocean assult vehicle…It works fantastic, but the by product is vaporized seal parts. This isn’t so bad except when the seals actually get to close to the vehicle, the seal dust blows into the boat. Hence the use of seal dust.
Also If you use quality foam you won’t have these problems. I just had the opportunity to shape 2 of the same boards, one blank was a on deal close out, the other was a first quality US Blank. Guess which board will turn out better? Just like Papa Johns Pizza says, “Better quality, Better ingredients” I’m a believer in planning things out. if your planning on doing a resin tint board, or planning on making a gun shape, get a the best material you can find. It’s not that the color is that big of a deal, but have you ever been out on a big day and been on the wrong board, or worse had a equipment malfunction…something like a leash plug pull out, or fin system fail because of cheap material, nothing like geting your ass kicked by the waves over saving $30.00.
I still can’t get the thread out of my mind of the 4 fisherman, in a small aluminum boat, 2 with gaffs, 1 with a knife, and the other with a ballpin hammer, whaling away on the black bear that was just out for a swim and tried to rest in the guys boat for a spell.
I think I have a plan??