question… does any one have any techniques for applying logo laminates to a resin tinted board? are your putting them on normally (on the foam, under the glass) or on top?
i was considering placing the logo under an additional piece of cloth (cut slightly larger than the lam and on top of the tinted layer) and glassing it on with clear. will this create a noticable bump which will affect the board functionally or cosmetically?
Brasco, that’s what I do. If you have access to 2oz cloth to cover your logo, it will be even better but 4oz is OK and shouldn’t show.
Here is one example:
how do you get white to print on logo paper? still with inkjet method?
what you described is the best way to do it- u can put it under if you use yellow tint and its a black logo, but otherwise it should go on top. cover it with 4 oz and try to cut the piece circular, no corners- they are harder to fair in.
it shouldnt leave any bump after you are finished with the board. hotcoat the whole board before you grind the lam down over the decal, after you do there will be weave showing but its ok because it will be covered up with the gloss coat (provided you are glossing) if not just apply one more thin layer of hotcoat and sand again.
there are other ways but this is the technique i have learned and seems to work best for me.
these arent the best pics but they sorta show what i mean
Those were printed on a white background, precisely because I do a lot of tinted resins and I wanted them to stand out even on dark colors. (Professionally screened).
my 2 cnts
to get white you need to have the logo’s silk skreen’d
I have put inkjet logo’s on after the lam with just lam resin then hot coat over
worked for me
heres the board
Howzit brasco, Balsa has the right idea and it has been used for decades. 1 trick is to use a bent razor blade to trim the edges of the glass to blend them in before hotcoating. Aloha,Kokua
A trick we used to use when we were doing a lot of opaque lams as well as tints was to have mirror-image screens made, then have the designs screened onto the backside of the paper. When wet out, the logo would show through the paper, and no extra glass was needed as the paper would protect the image and you could completely level in sanding. If you started to even get close to sanding into the logo, the paper would start to show up first.
The way to get the white background on inkjet printed lams is to paint the backside. Tape your rice paper print (full printed sheet) on a piece of cardboard. Tape all 4 corners and each side (8 places), stretch tight. Use only two very thin coats of regular Krylon white on the back of the paper, let each coat dry very well. Very gently go over the painted side with 220 paper to knock down any big bumps. Remove from the cardboard, cut out your logo (must have a border), and glass on as others have said using a piece of 2-4 oz. A couple of other points: Resin will not go thru the rice paper after you paint it; paint the resin in the location first and then hard squeegee the logo using a piece of scrap 8 oz cloth over it. Some white may bleed out the edges, so use a slow cure and dab it off. Do not use acrylic or water base paint, it will run the printer ink and wrinkle the crap out the logo. And the main thing is to use the heavy rice paper, the kind that isn’t transparent when glassed.
I’ve never had one of these delam or bubble, and have some over 8 years old. Enamels and poly resin are not really compatible, but the Krylon does work for this.
Its called a floating lam, If you a bold plain black logo it will show through tints well enough without floating it, this obviously doesn’t work with opaques
thanks for all the replies and tips guys.