Aloha from NH, is there a rule of thumb for for figuring out how much resin to mix with respect to length, (ex. 1/2 gal per 3’) I am bout to glass a 10’6" and want to get it right without wasting the liquid gold… Any help, advise or insight would be greatly appreciated … also, a good cc. amount of hardener for a long slow “kick” rate would be nice too… Thanks Jake Sullivan
Jake, Use UV cured resin. It costs more, about 40$ per gal but you can work with it almost indefinately when laminating, and you can pour whatever you didn’t use back into the can, given you didn’t kick it off in the sunlight. Its great for tint jobs because it gives you extra time to lap the rails and get all the strings, bubbles and dry spots covered and perfect. walk it out into the sunlight and…bam it kicks off in a few minutes. You can glass & hot coat the entire board in about 2 hrs or less. -Jay
Jake, Use UV cured resin. It costs more, about 40$ per gal but you can work with it almost indefinately when laminating, and you can pour whatever you didn’t use back into the can, given you didn’t kick it off in the sunlight. Its great for tint jobs because it gives you extra time to lap the rails and get all the strings, bubbles and dry spots covered and perfect. walk it out into the sunlight and…bam it kicks off in a few minutes. You can glass & hot coat the entire board in about 2 hrs or less. -Jay
Jay, thanks for the tip, but my shaping bay is in my basement, and I can’t remember the last time I saw the sun shine without fear of severe T-storms #%^&#$& new england but that is a great idea, maybe my wife can park out in the street for a while… thanks Man!
Jay, thanks for the tip, but my shaping bay is in my basement, and I can’t remember the last time I saw the sun shine without fear of severe T-storms #%^&#$& new england but that is a great idea, maybe my wife can park out in the street for a while… thanks Man!
Artificial light… I think I still have my old HPS light from college, 430W should be plenty (extra 30W of blue spectrum for the… um… Gloss Coat?), worked great on my, tomatoes?
Artificial light… I think I still have my old HPS light from college, 430W should be plenty (extra 30W of blue spectrum for the… um… Gloss Coat?), worked great on my, tomatoes?
thanks Rook! another killer idea… but now, decisions… finish my board?..or do I let my (tomatoes)snicker… snicker… reach their proper “ripeness” hmmmmmm… I must break out the peace pipe and consult the spirits… well… it dont’ look like I am getting shit done today… thanks for the help…
thanks Rook! another killer idea… but now, decisions… finish my board?..or do I let my (tomatoes)snicker… snicker… reach their proper “ripeness” hmmmmmm… I must break out the peace pipe and consult the spirits… well… it dont’ look like I am getting shit done today… thanks for the help…
a surfboard will get you through times of no tomatoes better than tomatos getting you through times of no surf board and besides surfing increases appitite better than any inhaled oxidant save mony make your board fril agriculture and incarceration ambrose
a surfboard will get you through times of no tomatoes better than tomatos getting you through times of no surf board and besides surfing increases appitite better than any inhaled oxidant save mony make your board fril agriculture and incarceration ambrose
Jake. Normally you would calculate the amount of resin needed by the weight of the glass. Surfboard cloth will wetout at less than 1:1 by weight.I normally go at 1:1 giving the blank will absorb some resin and it is better to have a little to much resin than not enough.I like the idea of this UV resin, I’m not shore if it is on the market in Australia yet. As for catalyst (hardener) the amount you add depends on a number of vairiables, temp,number of layers,humidity,etc. The resin we get in Aust, the manufactures suggest not going below 1% and not above 2.5 - 3%. We also have a slow reaction catalyst which gives you a longer open time. You mix it as you would normal catalyst, but you get more time to work with before it gels. Hope all this is a help. David.
Jake. Normally you would calculate the amount of resin needed by the weight of the glass. Surfboard cloth will wetout at less than 1:1 by weight.I normally go at 1:1 giving the blank will absorb some resin and it is better to have a little to much resin than not enough.I like the idea of this UV resin, I’m not shore if it is on the market in Australia yet. As for catalyst (hardener) the amount you add depends on a number of vairiables, temp,number of layers,humidity,etc. The resin we get in Aust, the manufactures suggest not going below 1% and not above 2.5 - 3%. We also have a slow reaction catalyst which gives you a longer open time. You mix it as you would normal catalyst, but you get more time to work with before it gels. Hope all this is a help. David.
I dug out Noodle’s formula from the archives for ya. I needed to check it anyway… The Noodle formula: 1.5oz resin pr. foot of board length pr. layer of 6oz cloth God bless Noodle. regards, Håvard
I dug out Noodle’s formula from the archives for ya. I needed to check it anyway… The Noodle formula: 1.5oz resin pr. foot of board length pr. layer of 6oz cloth God bless Noodle. regards, Håvard
That’s for epoxy and that doesn’t include wetting the blank which takes another 1/2 - ounce per foot… roughly.
That’s for epoxy and that doesn’t include wetting the blank which takes another 1/2 - ounce per foot… roughly.
Hi Greg, Do you still need that extra 1/2 oz for wetting the blank if it’s spackled? I’m mixing generous amounts anyway, just curious. How much would you use with poly pr. foot with 6 oz? regards, Håvard
Hey Greg, Tom here down in Texas. Have been using Resin Research over the last few weeks with success. Somewhere I believe I read that you have some accumulated information on use of your product, length vs volume ratios, etc. Do you have some FAQ for the builders using your epoxy products? I’m accumulating my own, penciled in on the wall of my glassing bay, scraps of paper etc. but the more info the better. Particularly interested in the Additive F info and details. I’ve been using it in every batch, lam, hotcoat and even in a gloss coat I did last night to finish a pinline job. Havard! how goes it? Sorry for the lapse in e-mails I’ll try to pick up the pace. Tom S.
I do have some info on epoxies. Tell me what your looking for or e-mail me @ . On wetting the blank there is always space that needs to be filled between the blank and the cloth. This does take resin even with sealing. Sealing does cut down on the amount though.