Restoration - 70's single fin - where to go?

I’ve been working on restoring this board for a while and actually took a break b/c I think I have hit a wall and need some advice.

This is a 70’s del cannon about 7’0" gun that my father used to surf back in the day. It was sitting in the basement rotting away with a broken nose and smashed tail just sucking up mold, so I decided to fix her up.

I sanded down to the glass, rebuilt the tail and nose and fixed the dings. I then applied a colored hotcoat that really didn’t come out that great. (see photos)

After these photos were taken, I sanded it down further and it is baby’s butt smooth, but the glass is thin in some spots and the colored hot coat is spotty at best.

Where should I go from here? I’m not sure I want to spray paint it as I like the DC logo and I’ve done a good job with all the dings. Should I put a 4 oz glass coat then color hotcoat again? I want to surf this not hang it.

(I surfed this thing a few times before I took on the job and it is super loose, fun and crazy to surf)


I think I’d sand down to the glass again, then add a layer of 4oz tinted glass? maybe olive green…

I’m not a restorer but I have a board with similar issues and I have sanded it down and fixed the dings, with a plan to reglass where necessary with 2 oz. cloth… hoping to add as little weight as possible.

Why not tape off the logo and spray the rest of it?

The basic problem to this kind of restoration is the color blotches.

I have succesfully taken boards down to the glass, used a hot coat to seal what was there

previously and like you said Keith…follow up with a 2 oz cloth with laminate resin and pigment.

This gives the board a uniform color and greatly minimizes the blotches.

Ok so basically this is how to proceed:

glass it with laminate resin with pigment added and 2oz glass (what’s the best place online to shop for supplies?)

Hot coat after that?

I would like to have a gloss finish - gloss coat after the hot coat?

Thanks for the replies and the help.

Have a look at the link below and scroll down to the Hot Roc restoration. It may help. I wanted to do a pigment glass job on another restoration, so I did some test lams over the repaired dings. You could still see the dings through pigmented resin and glass.platty.

http://www.davidplattsurfboardrestorations.com.au

im looking for a restorer\ding repair professional, in the nyc long island new jersey area...my # is 646 509 3590...i have some old 60s 70s shorts longs and.... 2 90s i want ding free 1 i want to install a single cnter box on a future systems box...it hums..its crooked...anyone interested call me... i want color coordination  on the restorations with out addding to much weight...thx. glenn.

 

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com

 

They have glass in all different weights. Starting at around 1.5 oz.

 

PS: You have a classic board, built by a truly classic guy. What type of fin box does it have? Looks like an early FU? Still have the original fin?

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[quote="$1"] what's the best place online to shop for supplies?

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http://www.fiberglasssupply.com

 

They have glass in all different weights. Starting at around 1.5 oz.

 

PS: You have a classic board, built by a truly classic guy. What type of fin box does it have? Looks like an early FU? Still have the original fin?

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I believe FU still has some of the colored lexan fins for that early box.    It's worth a call, or e-mail.   Del was one of the regular crew at Windansea, during the 1950's through the 1960's.    As you said, a classic guy!   A true waterman.

Hi David Platt, I had a look at your site and I sigh at those pesky brown water stains that plague good old shapes. I had some excellent results on SMALL water stains by drilling a series of small holes with a Dremel and injecting a few drops of oprdinary house bleach into the holes.

 It took the brown colour out of the top layer of foam and it returned to almost white. I didnt try it on logos or sprayed colours.

Over a hand sized area, it took about a day to do.

 The foam has stayed white since then.