Restored Montgomery Ward Power-Kraft TPC-8937A 3-1/16" 7.0 amp power planer

A few months ago I picked up a vintage Montgomery Ward Power-Kraft TPC-8937A power planer. The planer has a 3-1/16" cutterhead and a 7.0 amp motor. When I purchased the planer, it was in pretty rough shape. 

Before

The power cord and strain relief for the planer were both severely rotted, in addition, it was obvious that the planer had seen a significant amount of moisture at some point, as all the bearings, blades and armature fan were covered in surface rust. 

The planer is almost all aluminum, so the body wasn’t too bad, but it had a lot of surface corrosion and was covered in dirt. 

The nameplate was pretty much a lost cause. I ended up not even putting the nameplate back on, but am currently looking for images of a similar name plate that I can have printed out for a replacement. 

The base had a lot of deep scratches. I was able to shine it up on the wire wheel, but didn’t really want to do too much surface removal to true it up and remove the scratches. 

 

Reassembly

After disassembling the planer, I let the parts soak in the parts washer over night, then took them to the wire wheel, masked them, then primed and painted them. There are 3 coats of automotive primer and 4 coats of silver metallic (Rustoleum 7271 equivalent), followed by a coat of clear coat on all of the aluminum pieces and the belt guard. 

I cleaned the armature and ended up painting the armature fan because I couldn’t get it to polish to my liking after being so rusted. 

I buffed the handle and shoe adjustment knob as good as I could to try to bring a bit of shine back to it as well. 

While waiting for bearings to come in, I started the main assembly of the planer. I cleaned up the coil with a bit of citrus cleaner and a toothbrush and put it back in the planer. 

Before paint, I took the base of the planer and cleaned it up on the wire wheel. I got it a bit shinier but didn’t remove most of the deeper scratches or really bring it to a mirror finish by any means. 

I replaced the cord on the planer, replaced the trigger with an identical NOS locking switch I had laying around, replaced the brush caps with NOS brush caps I had laying around and then replaced all the bearings. 

The replacement bearings were as follows

  • SKF 608 2ZJEM
  • 2x SKF 629 2ZJEM
  • SKF 6200 2ZJEM

All bearings were high speed SKF bearings with metal bearing shields on both sides. 

Finished 

All finished and ready to send off to my friend for his birthday present. 

The blades on the planer had some severe nicks in them, so I am currently waiting for my local saw shop to finish fabricating new ones for the planer. 

The little black bolt on the base of the shoe is used for locking down the shoe. There isn’t really any give or play in the shoe from the adjustment knob and its kept pretty tight with the tensioning spring, so I barely tightened it. 

When I bought the planer, the cord and strain relief were both rotted. The cord was extremely rotted, however, the strain relief still had some good rubber left on it below the surface rot. The strain relief has a metal threaded core which the rubber was originally molded around, so I had to get a bit creative in making a new one, since there was no similar strain relief I could find. 

I took the spring cord relief off an old Skil 825 saw I parted out and screwed the larger end of the spring onto the rubber until it had about 4 or 5 rings of the spring wrapped onto the original rubber strain relief. After I got it on, I took a piece of 4/0 adhesive lined heavy wall heat shrink and covered the spring and semi rotted rubber strain relief. 

Overall, I am very happy with how the planer turned out and am also overall very pleased with the general construction of the planer. 

Granted, it had a few more casting marks then I would have liked to have seen and I wasn’t the biggest fan of the rotary / screw type depth adjustment, but it seems to work well none the less, just not as preferable as the ‘on the fly’ depth adjustment on a Skil 100.

 
I have seen a few modifications around here for modifying the shoe to be able to be adjusted on the fly, which I might do if I ever get one of my own, but for now, I think my friend will be happy, though the rotary shoe adjustment can be a bit of a pain at times. 

Nice work Bree. Were you able to find belts for that one? I’ll try to post a picture of the nameplate from mine later today.

Edit: picture added

Very good work!!! Very nice!

But I have a question for you…

I founf on ebay this planer and I like it,  http://www.ebay.it/itm/291817792229?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I would buy it. Is this planer like your planer?

I don’t understand…

Thank you.

Jrandy, thanks for the nameplate picture, this is extremely helpful and I should be able to make a new nameplate from this. 

In regard to the belts, I think I have a lead on a few places for sourcing them. With that said, the belts on my planer were in GREAT shape and had plenty of life left in them, so I just threw them back on. They looked practically new to be quite honest. 

By chance, do you know of anywhere to source blades, or are they pretty much custom at this point? 

Why_Not, thank you. Tool restoration is somewhere between a hobby and addiction for me. I posted a lot of my restorations over at Garage Journal if your ever interested. 

The PET planer is the exact same planer as the Monkey Ward. Likely both made by the same outside manufacturer. With that said, the price they are asking is a little ridiculous, at least in my opinion. I picked my planer up for $50.00 with free shipping on Ebay… then again, I picked my Skil 100 for $150.00 on Ebay too… if you can, just be patient and you will find a good deal… just my two cents. 

Bree, the blades on mine were more dull than nicked so I did not have to try to find new. We have a tool and die shop at work and the guys don’t mind sharpening an occasional set for me. They also helped me find a couple missing machine screws for the blade assembly. 

If I had to have some made I would ask first at American National Knife since they are familiar with Skil 100 blades. You would probably have to draw it up or send them one as a reference.

 

That was kind of what I was thinking. I have a saw shop near me that knows me VERY well and is more than willing to cut me out a few on their water jet, I was just curious if there was a readily manufactured set made for something else that I just had not found as of yet. 

 

Do you surf / make surfboards?

California Carbide in Ventura might help. Carbide.com.

You are much too advanced for a hobbiest. Where did you learn to do this? What else do you make?

Thanks for the advice about California Carbide. I emailed them to see if they might have any guidance on sourcing knives. 

And mostly just a self taught hobbiest when it comes to tool restoration. I collect vintage power tools, mostly Skil. I have a Skil 100 Type 4 that started the addiction. It was my first complete restoration, and given the value of the Skil 100, was the only tool thus far that I chose to have professionally powder coated.  

I have a Skil 67  6-1/2" wormdrive saw, a handful of Skil 77 7-1/4" wormdrive saws, a Skil 825 8-1/4" wormdrive saw, a Skil 107 10" wormdrive saw and the monsterous Skil 127 12" 20A wormdrive saw… all 38lbs of it. I also have a lot of other older Stanley power tools from my grandfather. 

There is nothing more enjoyable than looking at a tool after a restoration and having an opportunity to see what it likely looked like fresh out of the store. 

Bree, would you mind coming to france, near Biarritz? I have a few planers that would love a fine restoration like that… And I can’t find the time to do it myself… (Those pictured are just the ones in good shape but there are at least 4 or 5 others that are much less presentable.)

Balsa, you throw in a roundtrip ticket, a roof over my head and some good cooking for the duration of my stay and I’m in… 

On a serious note, I’m always willing to do restorations for others, but the thought of the price of shipping from  Biarritz, France to Montana, United States and back makes me shudder.

Roof and cooking, no problem.

Roundtrip ticket, ahem.

Definitely too expensive to ship any of them.

Another what-could-have-been-a-nice-story requiem…

I just happen to have a brand new set of power Kraft blades. I bought several modified power craft planers from a guy here on swaylocks 10 years ago. Send me a pm