I’m in the process of shaping the tail on a hollow wood retro fish and I’m looking for some feedback on the curve on the inner cheek. I was wondering if I need to take more off of the shaded section below.
I’ve seen photos as below where the shaper has taken it in quite a straight line from the apex of the crack to the tip of the wing but this appears to be more modern.
The photos I can see of a Lis fish appear to follow the curve a bit more as below but does seem to have a more gradual taper from the apex of the crack onto the deck.
On noses in general do I leave the bottom alone so I do not mess up the rocker? I need to thin it out. The last board and first one is thinner in comparison but that one too could have been thinned out more especially towards the tip.
Yes.
The Fish typically uses the “beak” nose, curving down from the deck to bottom surface. No bottom rail shaping. This would be a beak on a round nose — with a pointed nose it would be like a beak. (Look at my Bird surf shed post about the Steve Lis Fish Tidbits above).
Like the tip of this nose only thinner and pointed.
As to painting this time. I have some spots where the foam is not perfect. Spackling is not readily available. They dont use sheet rock here. I can see the spots that I didnt patch just a bit on my first clear board but wondering if I paint this foam blank with acrylic before glassing what I should expect. Can I just water the paint down and brush it on? How long does it need to dry before glassing? I was thinking to do a solid sea foam green color and maybe add some pin stripe.
