I used rice paper from Fiberglasssupply and an inkjet to print onto.
I layed in a square cut piece of rice paper with the logo printed on underneath the glass.
I Just brought the board out into indirect sunlight (outside shade). And just over the last few hours, it’s almost as if the board yellowed just a tad and now is showing a bright white square where the rice paper is.
I’ve noticed this slowly happening on my other boards. But this one happened almost immediately. Pretty frustrating.
I just got an order of silky heavy and silky medium I’m going to experiment with a bit.
I’ve had that problem with RR epoxy quite a bit…like almost every board or so. Even when I keep the board in a bag it yellows in blotches around the rails. It seems to happen more around areas where there is more glass, like the rail laps. First i thought it was my mix ratio, but now I think it’s just something to do with the Epoxy resin?
Happening that fast on your board seem kind of odd. Don’t know what to say. Maybe Greg has an answer, maybe it was old epoxy at the retailer?
I have a theory on this and I may be wrong but then again I might be right.
The UV inhibitor thats added to the epoxy to prevent yellowing will in time separate from the epoxy when sitting on the shelf after its been bottled. Something similar to what happens to poly sanding resin sits in the drum for a while and the surfacing agent surfaces. When the epoxy parts A & B are mixed the UV inhibitor is now not uniformly dispersed in the mix. Certain area get it, others don’t. The yellow blotches look very similar to what happens on a Poly glass job when the catalyst isn’t fully stirred into the resin and you get these brown streaks where the catalyst burned the blank. The yellow streaks that occur in an epoxy layup after some sun exposure are the areas that didn’t get the UV Inhibitor.
I use acid free tissue paper for my very simple logo. It’s the stuff they put in shoe boxes with new shoes. It’s always stayed invisible even when the epoxy I use yellows. Recently I glassed a board for a friend of mine who is a long time pro board builder and I used his very pro looking logos made with some sort of high quality logo paper. I could see the edge on that paper. It didn’t look too bad because I trimmed it close to the logo but still visible. His boards are normally pu/pe so maybe not an issue with poly.
Acid free tissue paper is kind of a pain to work with cause it’s so flimsy but you can print on it with an ink jet printer if you tape it to another sheet of regular printer paper. It’s very cheap so it wouldn’t cost much to experiment with.
Hey Resinhead, I bought a case of nitrile gloves (cheaper in bulk) so if you need a box just let me know… besides they work better than latex gloves anyway.
Hey, who said I was using gloves? I just let it flow around my fingers so I can really feel the Epoxy…then I wash my entire body with Acetone…head to toe.
I think it could be a combo of both, but I’m suspecting Atomized answer about the break down of the material, because I use laxtex gloves all the time, but I hardly ever touch the board, except the nose & tail corners. The blotchyness is sometimes in the middle of the deck, so there’s no gloving going on there.
Howzit resinhead, Don’t use acetone to clean yourself. Use Go hand cleaner it works great and your body will like you better for it. I used acetone once ( no Go in shop ) and the epoxy made the acetone smell like cat urine, had to dump the acetone ( all 3 buckets ) and air out the shop. Aloha,Kokua
That’s what i meant to say, I wash myself head to toe with cat urine. Works great, keeps the chicks at bay for us studs, wife appriciates that… But I have to sleep in the garage, and the dog keep growling at me.
Don’t worry, the only acetone I use is with poly, and then it’s just to spot clean on the slippers from a drop here or there maybe on my finger. Did you know that DNA works pretty good on poly skin clean up?..don’t know if it’s any safer than acetone in the long run.
on the second side it looked slightly more yellowish, and the lap line was left clear, I was really worried but when the resin cured it had gone clear. maybe it just needs a little longer to reach a full cure?