See Neal Miyake`s article for Road Runner Hawaii surfing column on Alternate Waveriding Methods. “When it comes to “surfing,” most people think of shortboarding, longboarding and maybe bodyboarding. However, there are many alternative methods of waveriding that enthusiasts throughout Hawaii participate in…” www.hisurfadvisory.com http://www.aroundhawaii.com/leisure/reviews/neal_miyake/2004-02_awmethods.htm
Wha happened to hand-boarding, surf-ski, old-style belly-boarding? Those have all been parts of surfing in the Islands. ABC Wide World of Sports Makaha International Championships even used to have a division for air mats! Mr.Dave Barclay was one of our early Hawaiian air mat surfing champions. Here is some more: “Before the money, there was Makaha” “… in January 1955 ? waves reached heights of 6 to 10 feet, and Downing prevailed over a field of about 100 surfers, mostly from Hawai’i. Within a few years, more than 500 surfers from around the world were participating in the contest in front of weekend crowds estimated between 10,000 and 15,000… With no concept of prize money, the surfers received trophies and immeasurable prestige… Makaha’s famous waves contributed to the prestige. Over the years of the contest, the competition was held in waves ranging anywhere from 2 to 25 feet.” In those days this was done from the puuwai (heart) for the love of surfing. Not the money. Mahalo nui loa http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2004/Jan/09/sp/sp24a.html
that’s a pic of a guy by the name of mike mcguire at sunset.he rides Blast kneeboards by Alan Mccray or"Buddy " .Buddy is an incredible guy. His story is long and very inspiring to say the least!!!I I think Mike is on a 5ft 8inch quad fish in the pic–[smile]! Thanks again for the udt fins .I ordered 2 pair from Dr. Deet’s – he even sent a few pic’s of himself at a classic out of the way spot near me with him in a big tube. The Blast Hawaii .com site is a great site with many shots like the one above.
seen fotos of a guy at mavericks on a kneeboard- gropping iin pretty deep on the peak too…
I went out at Waimea a couple times, long ago, not truly large at all. There’s tremendous speed coming down the face, but if there’s any chop you’ll be airborne a lot. It’s not the fall that hurts, it’s the sudden stop at the end. Note that Sunset shot, the guy’s holding one rail. I did that a lot when turning, but DAMN if you hit a chop you can be two or three feet in the air. Standing up this is less a problem, just flexing your knees will absorb most of the chop. Also rode Rocky Rights, Pipe quite a bit, Sunset a few times… kneeboards like smoother waves.
Very true Charlie, but board size also smooths out alot of situations also. Most kneeboarders in the past had never ventured beyond the 5’6"-5’10" range. Where now, with some styles of kneeboards 6’4" and 7’ gun kneeboards are totally mainstream.
large waves in indo or g-land are optimum kneeboard waves.Long lined up super hollow very clean waves and uncrowded.Has anyone seen footage of guys on small fishes at big speedies–a sight to see!!!Most waves in hawaii are too bumby and dumpy.
Rex Huffman rides big waves for 30 yrs on kneeboard fishes.Now he goes to fiji 4 times a year for the past 20 yrs-that’s where he’s been.
I should add Rex’s kneeboard gun is 5ft 5inch Rich Pavel quad --VERY THIN!!!
Toby’s 5’5" inch Kneeboard Gun or the Romo’s 5’6" boards are what I’m not talking about. Those actual boards are designs that have not changed one iota in 20+ years of refinements and progress in surfboard design. Yet in another continent, specifically Australia ,kneeboarding and kneeboard designs have been progressing. The Aussie Fin Forward Designs are what I am referring to.
those aussie fin forward boards are great for manuvers and contest type stuff but,I will take a 5ft 6inch fish at g-land anyday over those arm waggers. The fish design by buddy or rich you dismiss is still the right board when there is alot of grissle and things get serious.A 7ft kneeboard?? come on!! Total overkill.Toby rode closed out waimea on a 6ft Lis kneeboard .Buddy still has the board[smile]
…this is being a bit tooooo amusing. I’m glad you have heroes on 5’6" and 6’0" boards. my post was about the newer Aussie larger kneeboards being able to smooth out chop and situations. For those that havent been exposed to it. Good luck. Jeeeesh!
Kneelos who ride 7
long "guns"? What next? 9' kneeboards? We call them the "Oxymoron Models". The most progressive surfers have always known when to use the right equipment for the right conditions. It should be obvious that human knees arent functional for absorbing shock from chop in larger waves, UNLESS A PERSON IS STANDING! For the same reason our knees can
t deliver effective pumping. So they extend the length and width of a solid foam and glass kneeboard? That only distributes the shock over a larger surface area. What happened to flex? Too bad for many kneelo shapers, because the core lessons of their own history, i.e. George Greenough and the shortboard revolution, have never been learned, or simply ignored. No wonder theyre building kneeboards that look, float, paddle and ride like surfboards. Knee-heroes bouncing down 2X+ overhead chop! Now THAT
S amusing! Super clean Indo at max size is an entirely different scenario. Under those conditions a good 5'-5" Fish or flex spoon will kick any 7 “gun”'s fat ass all the way back to yesterday`s old news.
the tow in boards are even smaller than your aussie"heroes" kneeboards.greenough loved big blown out rincon by the way,one of only huys out when it was south wind and big.His spoon was 5ft long and ate chop!!Lose some weight Hal sose!!!
Surfing a typical foam and glass kneeboard is like driving a car without shocks.
you guys! Simon Farrer rides a 7’ gun occasionally. I never said that these were the greatest for Big Waves, but they have something to offer…They can smooth out situations. As to your other comments you guys are just rehashing old info and preaching to the choir. I knew I should have stayed out of this thread when Jimbo was posting 3 disconnected serial posts in a row …little forethought!
hal- I just want you to have the final say ok?