"Ring Crack" Repair?

Hi guys. For all the repairs I have done, I have never landed on a great solution for (what I call) “ring cracks”.

Yes, I checked the archives, and attached photos…

I refer to the round cracks that occur around compression dents, particularly at stringer and on heavily hot-coated boards. Preventing them with good construction is obvious enough, but repairing them has always kind of eluded me. First, not all of them leak, and I typically don’t fix it unless it’s broken, so many times I have deferred to a tasteful sticker or a shot of Krylon for peace of mind. Like a real pro. In the case of reviving beaters where the foam is down at the stringer, I have sanded and laid down a strip of cloth… These solutions have apparently been adequate, though do not address the isolated cracks on the deck or bottom that are known leakers.

I am guessing that most here will suggest sanding to cloth, perhaps even adding a patch, and re-hotcoating / sanding. This solution makes sense to me, if not a little labor intensive for something that could also just be forgotton under a nice STP sticker… Nah, I know better. So, specifically I ask if anybody has any neat little tricks, shortcuts, long ways around, backyard hacks or general good advice here (Too late on the “stay in school, don’t do drugs”, boys!). I remind you that I am not asking about preventing them or what is causing them, but if anyone has come across a neat way of insuring these ring-dings don’t effing leak once they’ve occurred. Yes, by “neat” I mean quick, lazy, and with the intention of surfing more than fixing. Thanks to any and all that are inclined to weigh-in.

 


I wouldn’t dream of suggesting anything as idiotic as a structurally sound glass job to begin with… try some of this stuff:  

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Rubber-Sealant-Coating/dp/B00L3MDI0I/ref=asc_df_B00L3MDI0I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198117319585&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1588015291356764888&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031722&hvtargid=pla-348262181466&psc=1

PS - I’ve tried 6+6+patch and still get them.  Even over good foam.  Not so much with compsand skin construction…

 

…both factory boards, John, give a brother a break! Thanks. Besides, what could be more structurally sound than an STP sticker? You know… the old ones. The good ones. 

We’re just not using enough stickers…

Nah, but I am humble enough to know that there are angles to things that I NEVER would have thought of on my own. The thing about repairing the rings that somehow bugs me is the amount of material that is sort of redundantly removed and replaced to repair such a relatively microscopic problem. I know as a natural fact that if you don’t sand all the way down to the glass, and simply hotcoat, you get the same crack only thicker. I have literally smeared paint into cracks with some success, also nail polish… of course resin doesnt work like that. As usual, i think I was reaching for a unicorn with my question. The “shortboard that paddles like a longboard”… I know in my heart of hearts that I will still be grinding and patcing these little bastards, still throwing down some sweet-ass stickers… used all my Flex-Seal gluing the two halves of my boat together.

 

Assuming there is some ‘give’ to the foam under the dents, you are correct - the cracks will likely reappear after a standard repair.  That’s the beauty of the flex seal stuff… it will ‘give’ as well but will remain sealed.

I wish there was an answer to this as well. Maybe just add some extra surf wax in that area.

The advantage of glassing with epoxy resin - I still get pressure dings, but without the ring cracks.

After removing the wax and cleaning it completely with alcohol, take the corner of a razor blade and trace a V into the crack through hot coat down to the weave.

 

Beware of contamination from above and moisture from below when filling it/ Covering it with more resin.

 

I’d probably go a bit further if it was a soft spot, or a magic board i wanted to keep forever. I’d confine the area of the ring dent with tape in a diamond type of shape, and precisely sand into the hot coat  within the tape carefully, over the V groove, barely touching the original weave, cut some round patches of thin cloth in growing sizes pulling out the strands in the 4 edges.

Saturate the layers on a warmed board, cooling down, then cover with creaseless clear plastic and squeeze out extra resin center to edges, onto the tape and absorbent napkins, pull cloth tight, and flat as possible with a hard squeegee.

Do not stretch the plastic with the squeegee!

 Razor inside the tape, pull the tape excess plastic and napkins, leave plastic in place until resin cures, then peel off.  Use razor to scrape down the edge of the resin where the tape was, wax up, and go surf.  No additional sanding is absolutely required.

 

The pushing of the excess resin and the layers as flat as possible, blending them to the shape of the deck surrounding the depression, works great with epoxy once it starts getting thicker. 

I’ve not tried this technique with PE resin.  Mechanical tooth is important when cloth is this pulled tightly. Use new sharp sandpaper in cross hatch pattern within the tape as a final sanding before mixing resin.0

 

If you sand into the confining tape, peel it off and use new before applying resin. Do your best to not allow the tape’s adhesive into the sanded surface within, but Q tips and rubbing alcohol can remove it.

That’s a great comment. Thanks.

Love this. Thanks for the beautifully detailed procedure, wrcsixeight! This is about as close to the unicorn as I would likely get! I gotta say, I kind of expected to draw some fire on this one, and I am stoked to get some great input from some knowledgeable, reliable guys… I know you guys. I read far, far more than I post. Thanks again

When I was in elementary school back in the 60s those STP stickers were sought after. I’d use those if I had them.

Another option might be a wax alternative, they are like stickers and will cover up the dent and you won’t have to worry about wax getting into the cracks. The waxmat from Surfco is a good product.

In the 80s and 90s I used clear tape or wax to cover all my dings because I lived in a fancy condo across from the beach that didn’t allow working on boards. They didn’t even let us take boards into the eleveators, they had surfboard racks in the garage for residents.