I’ve been wanting to do something like this for many, many moons…
It’s not dialed to the board, just done so I thought I’d post up some pics.
Fun with hack saw and file… Ha!
When I put it to use with my next board, I’ll post that up to.
Pre-emptive, cheater post… The board under the sand bag is set to the true/geometric rocker apex, and I happen to be able to see (It shows up in the pics) the glue line, so I know very close to where three inches less (The thickness of the xps panel) than the apex is. I know it’s fairly relative, but it works for me and my homemade blanks.
My thought is, this will help me get much closer - with more ease - on the next one than a straight edge and a “L shape/angle square.” Only time will tell.
Wild!!
How will you know if the Frankenstein bolts are square to the piece of bolted 2 x 2 and the other bits of wood with the sand bag? They look like they are on the piss in the photo?
Wont said bolts stab holes in your blank?
Without causing offence I think you’ve over engineered and under achieved on the quality of the rocker plate bolt idea.
No offence taken. I had the same thoughts about the quality, but I’m not, nor was I, worried enough to invest in something flater/squarer. The plywood and 2"x2" were close to perfect.
I’m not worried about holes getting poked - I filed the ends and edges of the 1/4" bolts nice and smooth.
I’ll be, as I did - but does not show up well in the picture - level the blank side to side, and level the frankin-rocker-board.
In the end, it’s all going to be relative - I’ll make note of where the bolts lined up, and line them up accordingly. My goal is to get within @ 1/16".
The real test will be the new board…
Thanks for for the feedback.
I’ve thought about that type, but wanted to make sure I had good numbers and replication of the tail details.
I don’t know if you saw this - https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/tail-rocker-customization - But I thought I’d got the original tail layout like I wanted, and granted, there where difference in other aspects, I didn’t quiet get it how I wanted.
The entry/nose area has not been problematic.
Inspiring as usual! Keep it up! For the record, I like Taylor’s work enough to have a “Taylor” photo file on my computer where I try to keep track of that crazy shit. Here’s a couple from the file…
Hi Taylor - I’m pretty sure the Nichrome is the way to go if you can get it. If not, use the stainless, keep the temperature at a moderate level and go slow. I’ve had fairly good luck recently just making up designs on computer, sending to USBlanks and having them do the cuts. A local material shop - ‘The Craft’ in SLO gets regular shipments. It’s easier than trying to get the big blocks and cutting my own.
I like that commercial Bro-tato-chip!
Has anyone tried the Rene 41 wire from Jacobs? It is supposed to be lower stretch and higher tensile strength.
Looking forward to the build!
