Hi guys,
I’m taking on the challange of shaping my first board, and got a 7’2 blank from some local shapers.
I’m working in shape3d lite, and trying to find what the right rocker would be for a fair amount of paddle power but still being able to catch waves.
I’m 5’10 and way about 150 lbs. I live in in the netherlands and will mainly use it in europe (france, spain, portugal, ireland).
I put in 2" tail rocker and 5" nose rocker but this was just a wild guess. Any tips are appreciated!
Welcome to the Forum.
Is the blank PU or EPS? Does it have a rough shape or is it a block?
Your board design (outline and rocker) will need to fit inside the blank, so one is usually not making a 7’2 " board from a 7’2" blank.
With Shape3D there is the Shape3D Warehouse where designs can be viewed and downloaded.
Are the local shapers willing to discuss the design with you? Early on we visited a local shaper and got some tips and watched some shaping which helped us pull some things together.
Thanks!
The blank is a 7’2 Marko thick from EPS, so I need to work with epoxy.
The shapers I bought the blank from showed me a view things, but said it was fun and educational to make the design myself in shape3d (from a mini mal preset for example).
Do you think a 7’2 is feasable from this blank? or do I wanna aim at 7’1 for example?
Is this the blank?
Nomally a shaped board is shorter and thinner and narrower than the blank it comes from.
I am not able to mess with Shape3D for some days. Perhaps you can post a rough draft of your design and others can provide feedback
(edit: picture, spelling)
my friend the painter says jpi-just paint it overthinking is for xputer
knurd points just shape it jsi you will , by intuition make the greatest board in the known universe .
like concieving a child with your eyes closed,
the flaws at birth fully realised
will be overcome with love and
paddling out over and over
speculating about your next board.
cut out the planshape glue together the scraps and shape tiny models or just a heart for a valentine for tomorrow you have about 12hrs before dawn
your time , to finish…
the computer diliberation about the shape can be stretched out for literally years or the shaping and glassing record locally is 7 hours held by rick holt…
hurry up before your hot girlfriend
starts planning a wedding…
…ambrose…
take your place on the great elipsis.
Try to get out to a shop and get a look at the boards and a feel for what you like. Some guys may like more or less rocker, both tail and nose, depending on the waves and style of surfing. Your 2 and 5 inch measurements are around the right ballpark, although you might want a bit less nose and a bit more tail. Sometimes its not all about the amount of rocker but the transition, too (ie how the rocker transitions throughout the board). This is one of the key factors that can affect paddle ability and maneuverability. A general rule of thumb is to have the nose rocker transition to roughly/little less of where your front foot would be, a flat section under your feet, that transitions to the tail. But this can be altered due to preference and surfing style. Wirh a 7ft fish it should have good paddle power nonetheless due to width and volume. The more tail rocker the better pivoting potential and it will help prevent nosediving, but it will slow the board down. Similar can be said about nose rocker. Hope this helps, good luck!
Ambrose, this is pure poetry bro, thanks for the tips and inspiring words 
Honestly I’m not looking for a one hit wonder world class shredder on the first go, I’ll be stoked if it floats, catches waves and turns fair 
That being said I want to arm myself with all the knowledge I can get before fumbling my first try unnecessarily!
B
if the blank is 7’2" aim for a 7’0"
For my first handshapes i tried to follow the natural curve of the blank. just checked if tail and nose rocker would fit.
i am no professional shaper and what i am gonna write here is how i do it or did it.
other people might do it other way.
so from what i am writting here use what is usefull or makes sense to you.
i had a midlenght from shape3d warehouse cut on a cnc machine that had nice rocker and thickness distribution.
the name of the file was DEANO MIDLENGHT.
check this file (or any other file) and if you like the rocker curve, the thickness or the outline you can use them on your blank.
so if you open the file on akushaper or shape3d you can check the thickness every 4 inches and mark it on the side of the board after you cut the outline. you can even make your own adjustements to the thickness.
you can also, when you reached the desired thickness in the widepoint (considering space for concave) use a long stick or aluminium ruller along the stringer and measure the rocker curve every 4 inches and then check the difrence between the excess on the blank and the numbers on the computer. ( normally we are talking millimiters here, but you can get it right this way).
if you take this numbers on a piece of painters tape along side the stringer you can even take it out and glue it back to check as you shape.
