I recently posted on another planer mod thread that the “depth adjustment on the fly” mod was difficult on the Rockwell 653. I always found myself just gripping the “T” handle with no way of moving the depth adjustment lever. The depth adjustment always seemed really tight - obviously designed to hold it’s setting while making cuts.
Albert “ACE” Elliott was kind enough to set me straight.
The tight depth adjustment fix was as simple as replacing the original Acorn Nut with a “Nylok” Nut partially tightened.
Modifying the “T” handle was a little more difficult but not that big of a deal - Aluminum cuts with a hack saw and shapes pretty easy with a file.
I think he might be left handed(?) as pics he sent of the “T” handle mod show the other side of the “T” removed. Maybe I just got it backwards but it seems to feel OK to me this way.
I also followed ACE’s lead on the baseplate shortening.
Anyway, thanks to ACE. You da man!
In the process I discovered some other stuff. I don’t have an owner’s manual or I would have known about the base adjustments.
Here’s what I did to mine:
Cut rear off baseplate (take a putty knife or something to peel off the stainless cover first - make sure you keep enough length to retain 4 screws in place or you’ll have some drilling and tapping to do. (Don’t ask how I know this.)
Replaced the Acorn nut holding the depth adjustment lever with a Nylok nut of same thread. This allows you to keep it loose for easy lever operation. I removed the front shoe and cleaned and lubed the vertical track on which the shoe fits.
Cut and reshaped the front handle so I could wrap three fingers under the “horn” and grip the depth adjust lever with thumb and index finger.
Removed any sharp edges or burrs
Found two set screws on either side of depth adjust lever - those allow fine tuning of front shoe mount bracket. I guess the designers anticipated repeated blade sharpenings on these planers and allowed for multiple base adjustments…
Found two screws to adjust rear base - just under and behind the motor. One loosens and one is a threaded adjuster. Set a straight edge on base and adjust so it barely clears the cutter in the lowest point of rotation.
Once the rear base position was set, moved the depth adjust lever to zero and positioned the front shoe mount bracket so the straight edge resting on front shoe and rear base barely cleared the cutter.
If “zero” isn’t that important, you can set that baby to really remove some material in a hurry… deep cuts on foam and stringers are no problem with that much power.
ACE wraps a piece of t-shirt material over a carbon fiber molding he attached to the motor vent to keep crap out of there. His is just held in place with tape. He also wrapped tape around the cord relief to help save his cord from too much flexing. Simple and effective.
Note shortened base and “horn” modification of “T” handle…
Note 4 holes above rear base plate - two for mounting fence and the others for loosening and adjusting rear base position.
Three fat fingers under the horn:
Thumb and index finger can now control the lever:
Tools used:
Again, thanks to ACE.
OK… I’m sure somebody out there must think I messed up a perfectly good planer so let the fur (uhh… FOAM) fly.
Very interesting thread…I’d be interested in a “ride report” before I start hacking away at mine. That being said, the handle modification evokes a “duh, why couldn’t I have thought of that?” The bull’s horn can be really awkward at times. Is there a significant weight reduction that you notice right away? Or, would it be just the ease of getting it up into the nose rocker? Either way, I see a handle modification in my near future - there is genius in simplicity. If I can locate an owner’s manual, I’ll see if I can scan it and send it to you. M
Just used it today. Also used the stock planer yesterday so a decent comparison was possible.
No significant weight savings noted.
The front handle mod is a treat even without the other mods. Three fingers under that “horn” feels very secure. I spent a lot of time with the files getting the grip just right.
I toyed with the idea of Herb Spitzer’s machine gun grips - not sure they would have allowed access to the depth lever.
So far I really like it and feel a noticeable improvement in grip and depth setting control. I have not used it in a way to really try the shortened base but I believe it will work better than the stock base in the nose area specifically.
You’ve got some cajones! This thread has both mesmerized and horrified me. I’ve often wondered what I could do to modify one of my 653’s but can’t seem bring myself to do it. I just … can’t. At least not yet. I like what you’ve done though. I’ve been trying to think of a way to attach a vacuum hose to one. I’ve got a few rough ideas, but they are all ugly. Thanks for the info.
p.s. I use a piece of women’s nylon stocking as an air intake filter. I’d imagine it would filter foam dust just as well as a t-shirt and let more air in to cool the armature a bit better. Also be careful when tightening the rear shoe locking set screw. If over tightened, it will crack your shoe casting and the planer won’t plane flat.
Best bet is to find a GOOD tool repair shop and let them contact who ever owns the Porter Cable brand now. I think either Ridged or Dewalt owns most of the old power tool companies now. Anyway, I know that belts can be purchased. Bearings and brushes aren’t stocked anymore but I think they are a standard size so the shop should be able find something that will fit. In a pinch, you can always try to find a larger brush and sand it down to fit. Its only graphite. Castings and cutter heads will probably have to be scavenged. Happy hunting! Let us know what you find out.
ya, I’m w/ Spud… It’s such a beautiful tool I never thought of hacking away at mine… the handle mod makes sense and yet I can’t approach that tool with a saw, egads!
