templating with router bah’’ go get it cut on a machine.
**eye hand co ordination with a power saw yep been on that one for the last 30 yrs
**
**but its not for young players
**
I never used a router bit to cut out my outlines. I’ve always used a
circular saw with a masonary blade. Takes me 7 min to template, cut and
true the outline. Been doing it for about 18 years now.
Forget the router in your case just stay with your method.
Your a famous shaper just busting some balls anyway!
You just use a spin template like always? Mark you spots for length, nose, mid, tail width, draw the shape. Clamp the spin template on front half.....cut with router.....move template to back half....cut with router. Then you just clean up the little mini bump where they meet. If I don't use this method, then I prefer a jig saw.
What's the benefit of a masonary blade in the saw....I've never heard of that before? (but then I live under a rock)
Also, USE A SPEED CONTROLER with the router. Not using this handy device will make you a candidate for a darwinian moment. Routers spin at 30,000 rpms, foam will cut at 7,000 rpms. A lot of bits will give you the recommended rpm on the package. There are no bits longer than 5 in and 1/4 dia that are recommended for +20,000 rpms.
Resinhead:
I use spin templates with the router as well and have a router speed control as you say.
Mike Woo has been shaping for 18 years so I kind of wonder how sincere he is in his question?
Urban legends about roouters go way back.
I heard one the first time I used a router
and was scared off of using one for years.
By the time I came to use one I was way carefullllll
and I took the time to tighten the collet real good
afore turnin' 'im on ,routers are a gender specific tool.
cross a router the wrong way you get violated .
when the bit slips and gets a little longer while cutting
a box -hole it is a little reminder to be scared
of the router again .skilsaws are heavy.
Cutting close tollerance shorties
with a 5 1/2 ''blade sounds reasonable
yet I havn't bought into that form to date.
we become accustomed to a tool set
that is often bounded by what we already own
and become more and more familiar .
full templates can be adjusted somewhat as well.
skewed on the centerline
at stringer right or left center an inch out or accross
can achieve quite a bit a latitude.
still the best feature of the router is
the true plumbcut one time by cracky
Gauranteeeee. And cleaner after
you drag the cut by a second time .
never watched the time piece
but I imagine the set up
is four times the cut time
which is the time to walk
from one end to the other twice
per side and then no tooling
til you are ready to final turn the rails .
would merle travis say?
'thet worm drive skil
is too big and heavy
for my size buddy
for my size '
'take this saw an'
carry it to the captain
tell 'im I'm gone
tell 'im I'm gone'
...ambrose...
appologies to 'nine pound hammer '
The router with pencil bit is best used very carefully. LMAO at the kevlar vest, etc.
Worm-drive circle saws with masonry blades give good results but that's another method not suited for the faint-of-heart.
Greg Loehr and I were talking about cut-out methods one day a long time ago when he said "routers are for people who don't know how to use a jigsaw". I still laugh every time I remember that one.
There is no one ''best'' way.
Aloha Resinhead,
That’s what I thought with getting rid of the kinks when altering. I use a jigsaw when hand shaping EPS because the circular saw with a masonary blade melts the foam. If I’m shaping PU foam I haven’t come across a more efficient tool. The blade cuts in the front and sands to the line while you move along the template. But like I stated earlier. I’m always open to new ways in cutting my shaping time while being more efficient. Saving 5 min on a board when production shaping is huge. (saving 5 min while not compromising any quality that is)
If you are more interested in this PM me with your email address. I can make a short video and email it to you. It won’t be in HD or anything as I’ll prob take it with a digital cam.
Mahalo,
Mike Woo
hey, does the router mess up the template that you r using??? what depth do you set it up at?? i`m making alaia's and just got a router and i have hardboard templates like the one you have in the picture, but does the router ruin your template? thanks for any help.
I can't believe I'm a carpenter and I never thought of that before.Genius!
I’ve used something similar, but even with the speed cranked all the way down, the bit wobbled and nearly killed me…
I think the 1/2" shank stuff is the call…but my larger router has no speed control…the guys at the tool shop say that it’s a no-no to attach a dimmer switch (rheostat) to a router as it could burn out the motor.
I did a few hundred boards with my 4" - 1/4" shank spiral down bit using a bushing guide and my royobi trim router. I have a router collection of various trim routers and Porter Cable 690's and a couple of Hitahci 3 1/2 hp plunge routers and the Royobi is the lightest and easiest to handle. Use clamps with a long jaws (took a pair of welding clamps and modified them) from the other side of your template. That way you only have one set up per side. Something is a miss with your set up. In the ghettos of HB there were about 8 shapers that all used routers to cut out outlines. It's actually faster and more acturate once your all set up. Come by the factory sometime and bring your tool and we can set it up if you like? A Porter Cable 690 with a 1/2 collet and a 1/2 shank is another option that many use as well. Plus the bushing guides fit into the plate of the router. I made my own guide plate for my Royobi trim router. A tear drop plate with a handle is the easiest to handle. 1/4" bits work just fine only make sure your using case harden steel. Don't buy cheap bits. It's never worth it. I have mine custom made.
I have a zillion routers in my shop. The coolest of cool is the Ridgid 20568 trimmer router. Magnetic motor means pour to the max ! Variable speed!! The thumb wheel depth adjustment can be used for plunge cutting. And to frost the cake it will except a porter cable or ridgid guide bushing !! I test drive all the routers every year and it is by far the hands down winner ever for trim routers!!!! If you wounder why I have a zillion routers its cause I set them up for single use so I never have to change setups. The Porter cables are good cause I can set up the bases for jigs and fixtures and just insert a motor and ready to go ! I LOVE my routers !!! Ahui Hou
The coolest of cool is the Ridgid 20568 trimmer router.
I do the same thing with my routers - Single purpose to safe time on bit changes.
Some people are addicted to many things. I confess I'm a tool junkie.
Now I have to go out and buy another trim router. I have a Dewalt and a Royobi trim router a third one is not a bad Idea for doing fin boxes. My glasser uses the Royobi. Maybe because there cheap?
I have the Ridgid Cordless Planner for foiling or modifing a new design it's a great tool. It would be cool to have a cordless Ridgid 20568 trimmer router as well.
Thanks for the advice!
I’m over it…I remembered something I had long forgotten…Ken Ebert’s hotwire cutter.
He has a sweet setup that he uses to cut the outlines using a hotwire set with a 90 degree angle…it rests sturdily on the template, flat and square and you can just walk the thing around the board.
no noise, no dust, no bits to poke out my eyes…
I need to build this thing…I’m tired of fuxxing up my outlines squaring them after my wobbly cuts.
Tyler, cutting PU foam with a hotwire will result in toxic (read “lethal”) gas. Cyanide, I think. Forget it. Good for EPS, not PU.
I don’t really use any PU foam, but thanks for looking out.
Porter Cable model 691 it’s the 6911 motor with 6912 D-Handle base with a Onsrud 40-564 Four Edge HSS Upcut Spiral Foam Cutter I use a Staco model PN1010 Variable Auto Transformer to controll cutting speed. You can find one on eBay.
Use this link to find the foam cutting spiral bit – http://www.ballewsawandtool.com/index.php?keyword=Onsrud+Four+Edge+HSS+U…
I went to all my local stores, and couldn’t find a router bit long enough. Wavecraft, wish I saw your link several months ago. Those bits look pretty nice.
The guy in woodcraft recommended trying these festool jigsaw blades
http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/jigsaws/jigsaw-blades/jigsaw-blade-s155-w-3x-493656
They are a special blade to cut cardboard and foam, and the like. I have cut two outlines in poly blanks and so far they work pretty good. No foam dust, and they can cut up to 5 inches thick. It was pretty quick to cut too. Not sure how many boards you can cut on the same blade.
You have to get the speed right on the jigsaw, otherwise it vibrates the blank too much.
For eps i made this, cuts perfect every time and runs on a small 12v battery that sits on the flat plate. I also put a small bearing on it so it runs smoothly around the template. I used to use a router but this makes no mess and gets a better cut. Since the pic it has had a few little mods to smarten it up but otherwise thats it.
bitchin’ Charlie!
I’ve mind built one of these a few times…
I guess there’s nothing to it but to do it.