can we get some more pics…
I’m curious as to how you attached the springs.
Looks like a pretty tight angle up there.
The top has a roller and baring the wire goes over. The wire then just loops onto the sping. Temp is controlled by moving a crocodile clip down the wire to change the amount of resistance. The only thing I would do differant is make the throught a little deeper
I used to use a nice bosch jig saw with a long downcut blade to cut out perimiter outlines. It worked nicely. I’ve even used a Skil saw before. But I found it easyer to just use a classic hand saw. With full templates and the Porter Cable D-handle router with the Spiral foam cutter, I get a perfect cut every time with out having to true it up with a sureform or sanding block. You do need the variable speed transformer to slow it down to about half speed to reduce vibration and the risk of the guide slipping off the template, ruining the template and possably the blank too. Here’s my latest personal board.
cool!
so, there’s no variac or ??? just hooked up to a 12V?
are we talking 12V car battery?
I just connect it stright to a 12v gell cell that way it is cordless and you don’t have to trip over any wires
nice! thanks again Charlie
HI Surfding.Is that just a drill bit?
help me im trying to rig my router up to do outlines but not interested in amy wimpy 2 1/2" router bit…
Afoaf, you CAN run a speed controller with a motor with brushes. You need one made specifically for that. A rheostat controls wattage. A speed controller for lack of a better phrase is a “chopper” of power. It uses the highs and lows of the cycles and is safe to use on a non in- ductive electric motor. For daily use, a dedicated controller for this is needed. Harbor Freight sells a cheapie that will do for occasional use. These will not hold up for everyday work. A woodworker supply house will have them for about 50 bucks (American). 1/2" shank is ABSOLUTELY the call for such a long bit. “D” handle router with an offset base like Surfding’s is the safest set up. More control.
ps. A dimmer switch is NOT a speed controller.
Afoaf, a dimmer switch is not a speed controller. A rheostat controls wattage. A speed control is a “chopper” for lack of a better phrase. It uses the highs and lows of the cycles. A dimmer will burn out an electric motor. These controllers are safe for motors with brushes.
And 1/2" shank is absolutely the call with these long bits. A “D” handle router with an offset base like S’Ding’s is the safest way to go. More control.
Never seat the bit all the way down in the collet. This will eventually cause wobble. Drop the bit all the way down and the back it off no more than an eighth of an inch. This will always keep the bit concentric. Rough up the shank a bit where it contacts the collet for best grip.
Routers…I get.
This machine…I don’t.
Sorry for the double post.
WTF? Over.
had a few messages about the hot wire and managed to dig up a few more pictures it realy is prity simple no trasformers switches or anything just a wire and battery. the second pic shows the barring that runs on the edge of the template so it runs smooth. i allso put a little resin on the base plate and polished and waxed it up so again it glides smoother on the tmplate. as you can see its great even for large prone board and you can cut the outline anywhere and not create a mess.
Here’s the variable speed auto transformer and the spiral foam cutter I use. Foam cutter is 1/2in. diameter, 4 1/8in. cutting edge length, 6 1/2 in. overalllength.
As far as I know the auto transformer is safe for all electric motors. I’ve been using it for years and has never damaged any of my tools so far. Also use the auto transformer with the planers.
