What sort of router bit are you guys using for trailer fin boxes (I think the ones ive got are 7.5" and 10" fins unlimited). I have a basic concept for making a plywood jig but my bits are the ones for futures boxes so they wont work for the long boxes.
Use a 1/2" straight pattern bit. Be sure to make a good jig ahead of time. Take your time and measure carefully. I got careless and decided to free-cut a box in my wifes board. Would’ve been ok if had taken into consideration the width of the bit itself. Now the box is 1/4" longer than necessary. Had to use plenty of glass and q-cell filler to clean up that mess.
Sr. Pato
Howzit SrPato, I know a lot of people use Q-sel for fin boxes but it has no structual strength. I find that using the same mixture I use for FCS instalations works really good because the milled fibers bind the resin together for strength. Plus I don’t see any of those cracks at the front of the box on the boards I put boxes in with that mixture. Aloha,Kokua
I use a small 1/4 inch router with a tungsten tipped (knurled) router cutter, this is easier to control than a twin flute cutter, will never need sharpening on thin surfboard skins, use a guide collar under the router and make a 3mm ply or mdf template. These cutters cost more initially, but will last forever(I have had mine for 15 years!)
Cheers
mark
Kokua,
I think I’ve heard about this earlier, maybe from you? Use a combo of chopped glass fibers and lam resin to fill the void. I can see how it would be stronger and makes more sense. Old habits are hard to break. Next time I’ll mix some up. Mahalo, Sr Pato
thanks for the info. Also, deep should I make the cut if the board is a relatively foiled out speed egg? I can’t quite picture how much of the fin box i can safely leave exposed and sand off so as to avoid routing almost entirely through the stringer.
based on my experience I would think milled glass or cab-o-sil would be easier than chopped glass strands to fill a big void like that.