I have had a few interesting experiences with these… Anyway, I think it is good to start a thread of things you learned through luck or the hard way.
Always cut the direction that the blade turns. Not doing this can start a fire – nothing sucks more than seeing your EPS just melt down to the deck because of an ember on the stringer… Also, I believe that cutting the wrong way dulls your blade faster.
Always drill a pilot hole that is slightly bigger than your bit… AND plunge the hole…
Never plung through the hardest thing you are gonna cut (stringer?)…
Wear saftey glasses AND hearing protection.
Have a shop vac setup – even if it is your buddy just holding it over the route or stopping frequently to inspect and get the debris…
Trim routers are less preferable to plunge routers. They weigh less and can skip, etc… Plunge routers tend to be heavier and more controllable. They also tend to have greater horsepower and RPM allowing for a better cut.
Keep your blades sharp – dull blades can cause fires just like cutting the wrong way!
With jigs on glassed boards, make sure that it is glued down very well. I use 77 spray you need to make sure it is set and glued well I have had jigs come loose mid route and that is potentially really bad.
GO SLOW!
Moderate your force on the router. It will cut, do not push it…
If you’re using a trim router, make sure your depth gauge screw is done up TIGHT! Nothing like routing out a hole for your fin box, only to discover you’re within 5mm of cutting right through the deck.
I prefer trim routers to large, bulky routers but that is just preference. I have found that if you make a large plate, say 12" x 12", out of 1/4" clear acrylic it adds tremendous stability to the router.
Also, try and remove the bulk of the material with a fostner bit if you are comfortable using them without a drill press.
Take the time to make jigs and templates.
I believe if you buy your bits from Rockler in the US, their router bits come with a lifetime guarantee. If it dulls or you don’t have the proper equipment to sharpen the bit yourself, you can just exchange it for another bit.
Shave the sides of the stringer down until the stringer is real thin. Then route through the top and bottom end of the stringer and then snap the stringer away.
Saves splinters of stringer flying into the sides of the foam if you do it this way. And possibly your eye. Now route the little jagged bits of wood left still sticking upwards from the stringer.
Also when routing foam alone for your fin box hole, route straight up and down the middle first, then route around the outside. Makes for less strain on the shaft of the bit and router motor.
Lastly I’m very much with you da5id on point 6. Plunge routers are a far better option for routing into surfboards than trim routers in my opinion.
The way I was taught you have a “Chase Cut” and a “Kline Cut”.
Chase Cut, the bit flute enters on the direction of cut and exhausts the opposite and the router will resist digging but
wants to run from you if you’re not holding tight. Use this cut to minimize blow
out while removing material in mortises or around/ inside templates by using multiple
passes.
Kline Cut, the bit exhausts the direction of cut. This cut
promotes digging, burning, and blow out. Use Kline Cut for final pass to ensure
all material has been removed when using jigs and templates.
