…so I thought I’d make a new one and see if there were any takers.
A thought just occurred to me and after searching the swaylock’s
archives, I came up with this thread (URL above).
I’m the first one to admit that I don’t know all that much about power tools, although I do love accumulating them. I’m using a Ryobi laminate trimmer like the one pictured in the old thread (thanks Pico) to install fin boxes and/or plugs. I’m in Australia, but there can’t be that much
difference between them.
My question is, what’s the best bit to use
when using this kind of machine? The trimmer came with a
standard, relatively short and narrow bit (sorry, don’t have a photo, can take one
if required). Is this adequate for the job, or should I be looking for a
more specialised product?
Someone out there must have an opinion on router bits…
When used on foam, High Speed Steel is more than adaquate. I will admit that I do perfer carbide tipped bits for their longer lasting edge. I would go with a bit that has the bearing on the top to rout the boxes when using fin box templets. I m not sure if you can get that type of bit in HSS. Just go with the carbide. A little more expensive, but worth it.
IIRC, The Ryobi router that comes with the futures installation kit comes with the correct bit and instructions how to replace it and set depth. But if you’re not using the manufacturer’s jig to install you’ll probably want to make your own somehow… then for your Ryobi trimmer a straight router bit with a 1" cutter depth and 1/4" shank should do. If only foam your bit will last forever, but if you’re cutting a lot of stringers & fiberglass you might notice dullness pretty quick (burnt stringer wood!) depending on the quality of the bit. Hope this helps
Bud - I’m using a Ryobi laminate trimmer, but not the futures installation kit. I bought it from our Harbor Freight equivalent (Bunnings) and it only came with one bit. It sounds like it’s the right one though (translating your inches into mm).
My dilemma is that my shaping operation is running on an oily smell (saving up for the rag), so I’m going to make my own jigs out of thin ply (because that’s all I’m equipped to do, no other materials or funds available). I want to make sure that I’m only cutting the foam/stringer and not the jig as well.
This is all speculation, because I’ve yet to make the jig, but I just can’t visualise how it’s going to work. If I’m doing shallow runs and set the bit accordingly, then it will only stick out a little from the base, with only the cutting edge exposed (not the shaft). Doesn’t this mean that if I run it along the jig it will start cutting into the sides of the guide, as well as the foam/stringer below? As far as I can work out, if I made the jig out of sturdier material, then with the same setting, the blade would more than likely shatter if it hit.
Should I look for a shorter bit with a bearing mounted above the blade, which I can run along the inside of the jig? Does such a thing exist?
I just can’t get my head around this. Probably just need to practise with the tool, rather than just talking/writing about it.
In my first post I suggested getting a bit with the bearing on the top. The bearing will run against the fin box templet to rout out an exact duplicate of the templet.
Check to see if the fin system that you are using has at tuturial in instllation or check out fin installations on you tube.
Surfifty mentioned a bit with a bearing is common way to do it another way for your home made jig, I’d look up a ‘router template guide’ (also called a bushing or collar) - basically a small fitting, attaches onto the router base, a sleeve that fits closely around the bit - a shallow lip to slide against the inside rim of your template/jig cut out.
Only just noticed that you’d added to the discussion with exactly the answers I was looking for. I just came into some funding for my next round of boards, so I’m going to go hunting for either a bit with a top-mounted bearing or the router template guide/bushing/collar thingy.