Read some of the posts about routing outlines and would like to try it. What are some of the ways you guys locate the template to the blank so it doesn’t move while running the router? Wouldn’t a 1/4" titanium drill bit work for a cutter. I’m getting a speed controller for my 4 1/2" grinder so I will use that on the router too. I like using the saw but I like to learn about all the techniques. Good hunting on the big swell today! MLC
Hey krocus, l use a trimmer that l modified for cutting outlines, you still draw your template as per usual but you cut with the trimmer freehand, it is a great way to cut out any outline and l even sold a few jigs to guys like Rod Dahlberg,Murray Bourton, Andy Inkster and Dale chapman. Rod recons its the best he has used and will never go back to the handsaw. Plus you dont need miles of full templates, just the ones that you use now. give me a few days and l will post the plans for the jig on my photo site. KR http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/krcomweb.msnw
Krokus, You have to slow down th router to about 1000-3000 RPM, the speed controler is good, also you should use a 1/2 bit. Go to an industrial supply place and get a hi Heliux, or a parabolic cutter bit in about a 6 inch length. if you use a 1/4 bit with out a speed controler make sure you wear a bullet proof vest, cause that bit will snap off and lodge in your chest or leg, it spins way too fast for regular or carbon steel. Any how, I use full templates of my shapes and I just clamp the template down at the tip and tail with a wide yoke Joergensen wood clamp. I route one side bottom up, flip the template and route the other. I use the Porter Cable router pattern guides to run the bit along the template. Some of you might think this is way too much work, but I’m use to wood working tools and make jigs for everything. To me it makes sense to use power tool for this process too. -Jay
I use a cheap Chicago laminate trim router with a 1/4 hole cutting bit (used in construction to rough cut holes in CDX and drywall). I have used a vice to press a copper bushing onto the bit to act as a bearing - allowing me to run it along the edge of a hardboard template. I have full templates for my favorite boards and swing templates for the others. Both work although the swing templates require more time as there are 4 'clamp down’s required. The best thing is that the cuts are clean, vertical, and perfectly follow my template. I no longer spend time cleaning up the outline cut. Since the cut follows the template exactly my templates have been tuned to perfection (IMHO) and my shapes come out with virtually identical outlines. The bit is only 3 inches long so it doesnt always make it through to the deck, I finish the cut with a keyhole saw. I tried a longer machinist bit ($60 bucks) but the length made the bit flex and get off center - really scary!
At one time I had a setup with a 6inch 1/2" bit with a porter cable router and collet.I ground the collet down a bit so I could use it on thin masonite.The templates were full (both sides) with saw kerfs cut long ways to help the template flex.It was done from the bottom on a skinned blank.By skinning the blank the template was less prone to slipping,I had pieces of 40 grit paper g;ued to the down side of the template.We used weights to hold it in place.Slow down the router speed for sure.The template outline needs to be configured right as the bit is actually cutting around 1/8" outside of the masonite.Using a half template like resin head’s will help on this.Waxing the top of the template with paste wax will help the router glide on the surface.Lots of work but well worth it for multiples and mass production.I like a hand saw and the planer myself.Some guys use battery skil saws with good results. R.B.
I second everything cleanlines said, except that I went throught he added hassle of making my templates out of 2 pieces of masonite sandwiched together and stapled. It was a real pain in the butt but at the time it seemed like less of a pain than grinding down the collet. In hindsight, I recommend grinding the collet. Also, definitely slow down the router. My first time at the wheel, the router (a 1/2" porter cable) somehow got off track (the collet must have ridden up on the template) and I just about messed my skeevies. Way too close for close comfort.
You gotta go with the 1/2 inch collet. I use the 6 inch HH bits and they cost me about $5. I had a 1/4 inch bit wobble and snap off traveling at about 5,000 RPM’s, missed my jewels and stuck 3 inches into a gallon paint across the shop, now thats scary. I also use multiple lay up with 1/8 hard board for my 11ft boards. I glue the 1/8 hard board with contact cement. Mr. Clean thanks for the sand paper non-slip tip. -Jay
I thought of this but never followed through.Instead of grinding the collet I thought of gluing little wood blocks about 3/8" inch thick around the perimiter on the down side of the template.The blocks would have 40 grit glued on.My thoughts were that by doing this I would have the full unaltered collet depth,and be able to use thin stuff like doorskin.This would in effect raise the template from the blank surface creating a hollow space and eliminate the dust buildup problem.It might just work.As for now I gotta go wax my handsaw. R.B.
With that same thought of building up the template you could do it backwards. You could put a deeper router base made with 1/2 hardboard or whatever, it could be oversized for stability and set up so the template guide only sticking out about 1/8. -Jay
How i use this stuff with the plastic templates that i have???
I use a Porter Cable D handled router with a 1/2" two flute x 2.5" Freud Carbide Router bit. When I switched over to routing I began making full half templates but you can also do it with spin templates. To keep masonite from sliding I would just spray a little spray glue on the slick side and after one use that would provide enough grip with the foam dust that gets on it to keep it from sliding around. I clamp up from the end enough to get the clamp out of the way of the router, to do this I welded extentions onto a spring clamp. Toward the center I use diving weights to hold the template in place. With the spin templates I route about an inch from center on each side and then clean it up by hand. The key with routing is take your time and keep the collet down. Good Luck, Matthew
Man you guys are going about it the hard way. With the way l do it l can draw any temp without having to make a million temps (which is probably not that much of an exaduration)or unclamp and move the temp. l have cut over 10,000 outlines with this tool and it is so quick that l can draw and cut any outline in minutes. l will get plans for it on my site today, it is so simple its rediculas. KR http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/krcomweb.msnw
you have a nice website, very informative…can’t wait to see the plans for the outline cutter…
KR that is a nice website.I am impressed.The router trimmer looks good.I made one similiar to that but the router was too big.Looks to me like the key to your tool is the “Trailer Edge” I can see how that would work.Once you cut the first few inches its good to go.I am going to make one…maybe put formica on the bottom surface for the extra glide.I shape long boards and usually pre foil the blank and roll the bottom before cutting it out…this would make the bit not cut sqaure I guess.Any suggestions on that?Maybe eliminate the prefoil and go with a longer bit?
Hey cleanlines, glad that you liked the site, l am going to try and get all my info on there to hopefully help anyone who is keen to learn what we have so that it keeps going as an artform not another pigskin. With the trimmer l cut right on the line (after a few you get used to it) so there is bugger all cleaning up to do but that is with flat bottoms after they come off my profiler, with mals l cut just outside the line and bring it back to square when its in the bay, because of the long clean cut it you can do long strokes with a block or surform to bring it back easily (still beats handsawing any day). http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/krcomweb.msnw
KR, why you dont need thousand templates?. the trimmer is only a cutting tool…!? nothing more (isnt it)…thanks
Reverb, the reason that l dont need a thousand templates is because l can get probably a hundred different outlines out of l template and therefore when its drawn up l can then freehand cut the outline out with my trimmer. Al Burn used one template for most of his boards and that shows you how much you can get out of one template. An outline template is only a curve and you can move it around the measurements to create a myriad of outlines, the key is to have different styles of curves IE; straight,full curve,mid,forward temps, laserzap like temps and so forth because with this range you can draw anything. KR http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/krcomweb.msnw
Ah, KR, if I understand you correctly, you’re using a template much as somebody doing mechanical drawing would use a French Curve? Thanks doc…
Exaclty Doc, its learning what curves to put where that takes time to learn and understand. Outlines are as delicate as rockers in high performance shortboards. KR http://groups.msn.com/MyKRSurf/krcomweb.msnw