Routing through Fabric Inlay Help

I’m planing on doing a full bottom fabric inlay with a quad set-up of Future Fin boxes.
I’m sitting here thinking of how I’m going to do it.
Do I laminate the fabric and go strait to routing the boxes? Seems like the fabric might still tear or shred with nothing on top, and get covered in foam dust.
Do I laminate the ares of the fin boxes (like a tail patch) and the route through that? Tacky laminating coat will get all covered in foam dust, scratched up by router etc.
Do I route the boxes and glass them in first, and then do the cloth inlay on top of the boxes?
Or lastly do I do fabric, cloth, hot coat and then route the boxes in and glass accordingly? I realize this last one goes against proper Future box installation technique but again I’m simply trying to protect the fabric and have never dealt with this situation before.
Thanks to all for any help or tips you can offer.

Laminate the bottom with the fabric inlay, let cure until its not sticky to the touch. Then route your fin boxes & place patches over like normal. Laminate the top and then everything else is as usual. This is assuming your are doing a clear lamination.

I have not done a fabric inlay yet, but if I were to give it a go, I would route and set the boxes and before glassing. Although as I think about it now, when you grind away the glass or fabric laying over the boxes it will be nearly impossible to get a nice uniform look where you grinded down the cloth. On a clear lam it doesn’t matter because regardless of your grinding job you will see the nice uniform flange of the glassed over fin box.
So my suggestion is probably not the best way to go.

I use fabric for my lamination. Nylon 6,6. The router will go through it fine.

All routing should be done after the hot coat, but before the hot coat is sanded.

That goes for leash plugs, and find boxes.

Fabric Inlay
Glass Bottom
Glass Deck
Hotcoat deck

Route boxes
Cap with 1 6oz patch thats cut pretty muck the size of the box itself, like a filler to bridge the glass on both sides of the box, then 2 4 oz patches on each box one smaller 1 bigger.

Grind boxes and feather patches.
Hot coat.

Acquainted glossing, with that way, how do you keep the tinted white box resin from bleeding into the uneven surface of a laminated weave?

He is installing future boxes no tinted white resin needed for those.

Exactly deez.

That method I posted is suitable for Futures. Futures 1 shot, fusions, origins, FCS2 …

Anything that requires a cavity fill of colored resin would go after the hotcoat.

Sorry, I missed the futures box

Thanks everyone for your input!!!

I learned ding repair first. Then air brush and glassing… shaping was the last step for me…
On your project I would lam and hot coat first…then chase the fin boxes as a repair…


Push hard through the ugly stuff…make it happen…set your mind on the final goal…
… good thread…
Where’s “what’s his name”?..

The smartest guy on Swaylock’s is you… Get out in the shop and kick ass!

Got it done. Routed through the first lamination layer (no hot coat) and it came out fine. A little fuzzy around the edges but I cut out any frayed cloth with a razor knife and what was left was absorbed with the resin when I installed the boxes. Looks great. Thanks all for the help and suggestions!! On to the fin box.