RR Epoxy resin wont cure, any advise to speed it along?

Hi i have just used RR Epoxy resin for the first time, i have glasses the board no problem the resin went off and cured perfectly overnight. I glassed over a lam an it has been two days and it still hasn’t dried and i need it to dry before i do the sanding coat. Admittedly i could have cocked up the measurements or not mixed it properly if this is the case is there any chance of saving it? 




That’s an improper mix.  See if it cures in couple days.  If it doesn’t you may have to start over again. 

If it does not cure shall i just scrape off the lam and excess resin best i can and give it another go?  

I’d give it a chance to cure first.  See if it’s workable.

Yea i will give it a chance and let it rest. The pot has set to the same consistency it is hard but still very sticky. I will let you no how it goes. Thanks  

I had this happen to me a few months ago with another brand of epoxy and I had the room to cool.  After two weeks it was still sticky.  I took a flat razor blade (went through several) and scraped the slimey portion of the epoxy off, then I sanded to where it was cured, hot coated and it was fine.  Time consuming but it will salvage your board. 

Thanks, i am going to leave it a while longer but if nothing happens i will use your technique with the razor blades, as long as i can save the board i will be happy. 

If it’s really gummy and stringy after you let it sit, and you want to do something, you could try to pull up the cloth. But I’d do that only if it’s still “wet” feeling, not rubbery. If it’s rubbery and tacky, and too firm to pull off the cloth, I would just put a layer of 4oz right over it. Why not? My theory is that not properly cured lamination, that’s good and stuck to the foam, only adds structure. It won’t take anything away. A bit of excess weight, but hey… what’s done is done.

For gods sake man....let it sit, it will kick off. You name..Winter  implys that you live some place cold...hell it's 43 degrees in San Diego today....I'm not laminating until the temp gets up to the 70's+....If it's cold , and you missed the ratios by 10-20% (which it sounds like you did)  It could take a week or more if you don't get it into a warm environment.  

Peeling the old lamination is a bad idea, and should be use only in a last resort. Peeling the lamination and doing it over will add unwanted weight to an, I'm assuming lightweight board. So you just killed the #1 attribute to an EPS epoxy board. Plus its a waste of material, time, and money.

I't best to take a step back from the ledge....take a deep breath, put the power tools down, and give it some time to let the chemical thing do it's thing.   Go make some fins, or some home made surf wax...lot's of other projects to do.


I had some problems with RR epoxy when it was cold.I solved the problems. The resin was too viscous to easily mix properly when it was too cold. It never cured, even if it was heated. It was not an issue of ratios or temperature - but an issue of inadequate mixing. The solution was to run hot tap water in a bucket, and soak the resin in there (in its plastic container) to warm it up. Warm resin flows better and mixes well. Cold resin, not so easily.


Just want to add a note here because this thread is one of the first to come up in searches related to epoxy not curing or kicking as expected:

I discovered “a new one” today when it comes to epoxy refusing to cure or kick properly.  Setting Proboxes, I used a different modeling clay than I normally use to help seal off the boxes and screw holes from epoxy leakage, and discovered, a couple of hours after pouring my RR Kwik Kick, that I had a weird mix of cured and uncured epoxy.

Normally, the prime suspect would probably be an improper mix, or incomplete stir, but I’ve never had this happen before, with any resin, including the 5-7 times I’ve used KK, now.

I have no way to be sure, but it seems likely that the culprit was the change in modeling clays, as I noticed that anywhere resin clearly had run over the clay, or been exposed to the clay, the resin didn’t kick, while the same batch cured fine in other places where it clearly hadn’t touched clay.

I thought this originally, but didn’t believe it after reading about so many other potential causes, but reading around some other web info I did discover that clay (specifically containing sulfur) can cause “cure inhibition” in rubber (http://www.smooth-on.com/faq_display.php?faq_id=4).

I don’t know that the clay caused my still ongoing issue, but it seems very possible, given that I’ve never had this problem before in building 12 boards with epoxy (and a couple more with poly).

At a minimum, my mishap’s a good reminder that “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” when it comes to glassing recipes.  I should have just paid more for the modeling clay I’ve used successfully in the past, rather than try a new one because it was cheaper.

Just use surf wax. I’ve always used surf wax on probox screw holes. I use masking tape over the shims.

Cool tip, but I pour from a cup and inevitably get resin pools in the fin box area.  With wax I’d be nervous about it melting in the event of exotherm.

To close the book on my previous post, I put the board with the non-curing Kwik Kick in the car (windows open to avoid it really getting seriously hot) because it was cool in SC this morning, about 48 hours after pouring the resin.  The still wet resin bubbled out, thin and runny, not looking any closer to kicking than two days ago.

Spent the afternoon routing the boxes out, routing larger holes for poly plugs in order to restore the board, eliminating the foam with the wet resin, in order to do a complete reinstall ofl the Proboxes.

Again I have no way of knowing if the change in modeling clay was to blame, but in the past I’ve used “Sculpey” brand with both Composite Resourse and with fast/slow/kwik Resin Research without problems.  The stuff I used that was in play with the non-curing Kwik Kick bummer was “Claytoon” brand.

With Sculpey I’ve even occasionally had bits of clay in the resin without problems.  I still have an excess of “Claytoon” left over, so if I get some extra time I’ll run a test with Kwik Kick to see what happens.

 Use quality 3M 233 tape instead of clay. No clay /done deal.

When Resin sits around for a few cold months the additives seperate. Soilds go to the botttom light stuff to the top. Shake it all you want…it’s not going to help. A nice warm day in the sun is what your resin needs. Or as stated by other posters a warm water bath… Go slow…it’s not a race…heat the resin at a slow pace to about 65-70* F…and then let it cool back down…we don’t need a fire…from there it’s all about room temp…

Here’s a stupid Resin Research trick that I use…If the Add F is clear…all is good. Go glass your board. If the AddF is gummy put your resin out into the sun. If the addF is soild. too cold. Heat your shop or wait for summer. Shop temp is key…



Here’s a stupid Resin Research trick that I use…If the Add F is clear…all is good. Go glass your board. If the AddF is gummy put your resin out into the sun. If the addF is soild. too cold. Heat your shop or wait for summer. Shop temp is key…



that’s not stupid