so I wake up I realise Ive been dreaming and the woman rustling beside me is re adjusting the covers and making it impossible to remain any kind of asleep…after a tour of the porcilan facility I am fully awake and decide to do some telixision devining ,I grab the remote tool and turn the damn thing on ,its been off for hours, the spirit moves me to deny the weather chanel and after a rousing song by an African world pop singer here comes willy nelson with a familiar love song …half way through I am shocked the core to finally see that it’s not about a girl it’s about sombody and their mat!..ambrose…“you were always on my mind” Willy Nelson nobel peace prize concert… breakfast with the arts sunday morning
so i phones Thomas…today is the day he leaves for paraguay…last night he phoned me to go for a surf on the mats…his new basic has been in hand for like three days
so the speculation about where it will be good… miters on 180 degree angle ? 197degree? will the wind be perfect for …or …shall we check the quarry …quarry > harumphnot crowded but hernandos will be***…get to tthe top o the cliff view and glimose the wind is perf the crowd is sittin in a knot and there are waves…change into stealth super hero wear and descend the cliff nobody down the end peak +++= waves with no confrontalism…like nobody like when me an john surfed i aouppla weeks ago YIP YIP YAAAHOOO
down to paddle out fins on first then the obligatory inflation ritual ,who can breathe life into the mat fastest without passing out [smokers need not apply]
The paddle out ,the 'know ship guys ' smirk a little as stealth prevails...they are convinced they are on-it- kind-a-guys washing slowly down the point to where it is not closing out and wonder if I'm gonna untilthere it is the clean blue sleek Zeke ...THE PEAK!
the fit is credible angle from the top as it jacks and runs manna schevitz what a wine...this here hernandos is a credible choice by Cracky...and shortly there after thomas makes his way down and we catch a few a piece and are duely impressed with our own growing tecnique credibility and with our choice and success,by the way...I left over a hundred surfboards at home today we went surfing with just fins and mats...and this is a hot sunny day with overhead surf and 80+ degrees...so we are floatin arround until I see that big ol rock illuminated golden by the sunlight and its right next to the peak on the end makeable wall so thomas catches one a llittle over that I cant reach,,like nobody has paddled over here from the pack that is growing in number by the time we leave there are 15-20 guys sharing 2 wave sets,,, so OOO OOO I catch a good size peak and grab the angle and am successful andmake a considerable wall and way down I see thomas inside the white water so I pursue the oppertunity and run out for the roller coaster as t is in the perfect spot to see ...land it dont kook off and he catches it too
and says" I gotta catch a plane
’ My furtive glanc to sea belies my hunger I’m sure but like a good scout I dont whine and we called it and then called it and called it on account of a plane…good job dale …without your help this moon landing would not have been possible…ambrose…when we climbed the hundred and seventy stairs to the top the guard at the gate said was that yoou guys? I saw that last wave it was long ,nice wave…then annie say’s as we cross the pkg lot I shot two rolls of film of both o ya [she had a tele photo…}
doesn’t sound like such a bad day. You could have woke up, put on the tele and had the pleasure of David Bowie showing you what a TVC15 is.
Now you let the cat out of the bag with your last two sentences…
I would LOVE to see those photos , please !!
cheers !
ben
hello Ambrose- that was such a great session on the mats. I was buzzin’ for a week after that. My inflight movie on the way back consisted of reruns in my head of the great rides I had. Neumatics rule, woohoo!. Oh, my wife swears I told her I would be back by 10:30.So we only missed it by a couple of hours.
Did you get the dvd, bythe way?
Later- John
yep got te dvd and fell asleep twicein front of it on the player
have yet to edit the still photos into a collage… soon day’‘’
luck had it we didnt stay out till 4o’clock…aaaaaaaahhhhhhhwwwwwwwooooooo
ambrose…me and thomas surfed the end peak exclusively this time