I did see a thread on this, but it sounded like they were talking about poly as well.
Is this stuff good for a final clear coat for epoxy/EPS?
Thanks in advance, sways rocks my socks.
It works fine, but a catalyzed clear spray does work better. You have to spray very evenly, go with spraying in two directions to make sure you have a very even coat. let it dry, wet sand, buff, boom!
Hang on a cotton picking minute, this shit eats EPS like a piranha that’s just come off a meat detox!
Will it be safe with minor burn thru’s? Or will it leach into the foam?
If you are worried, use the floor sealer alternatives. Read the threads on the various brands. I use Behr satin.
Wipe it on with a cloth, do 3 coats then a light scuff for a dull finish.
I was using the rattle can clears, but I never liked the way they spray.
You shouldn’t have any exposed foam on your seal coat, but if you do, go with NDS suggestion of floor sealer. A burn though is typically for exposed glass fiber, which you can happily spray over. Spraying requires warm temperature, minimal air flow and a clean environment.
Ah no worries then. Yeah my fill coat I’m pretty happy with. Just the odd burn thru of glass fibre so it should be sweet. Dang, how much does one learn one build at a time?! So much!
What sort of grit do you guys sand TO before spraying? 320?
I stopped using rattle cans the instant I found out about Behr satin sealer.
Probs too late for this one I’m building, but I take it the product is US made? Is it a wood floor sealer?
One will be shiny, one will be dull.
One will be durable, one will need to be reapplied every so often.
Look up UPOL#1, or Max2K glamor clear coat. Both are outstanding for clarity and durability. it’s the only product my mom lets me use in the kitchen.
Do you dudes wet sand after the clear coat?
Right or wrong, I view the spray on CLearcoat rattle can as a way to bypass trying to get a super high gloss out of an epoxy finish, as wetsanding to 1500 and then polishing epoxy does not yield the same gloss as PE resins, and I do not use PE resin anymore.
I always consider the repair factor too. Will the clearcoat when sanded away and the glass repaired underneath, will the boundary of the sanded clearcoat always be visible?
I do not know, I’ve not tried the rattle can clear.
I wetsand my epoxy to 1500 then use about 7.5ML of epoxy per side on a clean car wash sponge to smear on a super thin coat, which then dries glossy. Not mirror perfect shiny like sanded and polished Poly, but good enough for me.
I don’t really bother trying to get my repairs on personal boards invisible, but a few epoxy Lammed boards which had a Varnish or polyurethane applied to UV protect the epoxy, well those repairs would take rather extreme efforts to turn invisible with possible bonding issues of the repair.
I wonder if spray on rattle can clear would pose the same issues for invisible repairs down the line. Seems the concrete sealer poses little issue in this regard.
On repairs to my boards where I want the repair to disappear it is not unusual for me to sand the entire side of the board and recoat with my final finish coat of Behr.
The Behr sealer is an OUTDOOR concrete sealer so it has very good UV characteristics and doesn’t yellow. I’m sure wherever you are you can find something similar at a large home center.
No. I just hit it with a scotch brite pad. Acrylic tends to clog wet sandpaper in my experience.
