Hi I´m about to laminate a 6fot Fish quad; epoxy and an old Burford Blanks.
I have one layer: 4onz S-glass, and two layers 4onz E-Glas; what would you suggest to have on the bottom/ deck?
Options: one S-glas on the bottom and 2 E-glass on top, or one E-glas on bottom and S+E on deck?
Thanks for your expertise!
Best regards
Carl
Handshaped
Thats kind of a strange question. How did you decide when you were buying the cloth?
Anyway, put a single 4 e on the bottom. You stand on the top. Put the s cloth against the foam on the deck, so it wraps the rails (for more rail strength against dings) and the last 4 e on top.
Now, if you aren’t a good glasser, then switch the top layers, so the 4 e is against the foam. S cloth is stiffer, and is harder to wrap the rails, than e cloth.
Where are you, and have you done this before? From the question, I’m guessing you are new to this. Do you know anybody who has glasses a board before?
Consider ‘tweaking’ the cloth by pulling opposite corners on one layer so the weave orientation is in more directions. I.E. one layer at 90 degrees, the other layer shifted a bit… 60 or whatever. This has been proven to resist puncture type dings better.
If mixing (and tweaking one layer) S-Cloth and E-Cloth it might be argued that the S-Cloth should be at 90 degrees (full length orientation) to take advantage of it’s superior tensile properties. I’ve seen comparisons in which it actually had higher tensile strength than carbon fiber.
Mr. Mellor makes a worthy contribution, to the secret science of surfboard glassing. Pay attention to his observations.
Very interesting tidbit right there.
Sure fired way to put a “Twist” in a perfectly otherwise normal blank. Seen it done time after time by a pretty famous North Shore Shaper/Glasser back in the day. If you want to mix it up throw in some Warp.
The twist is what I was thinking with just two unequal layers. perhaps 2 e glass using full width of roll to angle, then one layer perpindicular/parallel to stringer, but not one e glass at an angle then one s glas p/p to stringer. That seems a recipe for a twist to occur during cure and unequal torsional flex.
Unintentional aysymmetry still works of course, but I’ve had twisted boards go magic on lefts and be festering dogs on rights, and subsequent builds have done everything I can to eliminate twisting pre and post glass.
Used to do this on team boards at my old job.
They would use a 7 foot x 20 wide table with a hook in the end. Use a wide cloth and attach one corner of the glass to the hook and pull from the other end, it would pull the cloth really tight together and create a more acute angle that would run across the board. They use to call 20/20 lamination. When you lammed it you would have to pull the laps from (nose to centre tail to centre) to follow the angle of the weave.
