S-Plug fin system

Personally I like these better.    So far this is the best system I’ve found.  I’ve looked at the ProBox system but felt the standard system was better.   I’m open to new ideas that’s why I started a thread asking for feedback on the S-Plug System.  

Is that called Standard, or “clone box”!!!

While there are some similarities, it is far from a clone.  Takes regular FCS fins.  The boxes tilt on the jig to set the cant.  There are no inserts needed to set cant.  I’ve been using them a couple of years and never had one fail and I have had fins break off without damaging the box or board.  I wish they came in white.

Back on topic…Anybody else out there using the S-Plug system and have any input?

Not going say a thing!  :wink:

 

Cheers,

Craig.

 

Beerfan, they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery-we say that they are just playing “follow the leader” For those who didn’t know Surf Source was one of ProBox first distributors before they came out with their FCS Box. Here’s a old thread explaining from Sways. Love Sways for History,  http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1020824  Mahalo, Larry

Wa Wa Waaaaaaa.  SurfSource made a better mouse trap.  Did you ever stop to think it may be a better design?  (By the way it is very different than a ProBox anyway)  Who needs inserts and a different fin.  Who wants to be locked in to the can't angle of the inserts?  I went with them because they are simple and strong.  Simple is better.  Oh and did I mention a production set with the fins costs about $20 less.

If you continue to feel the need to spam your product in a thread that was started regarding the S-Plug fin system, feel free but you are not doing yourself any favors.

SurfSource is a first class company to deal with.  I order it on Monday and I have it on Wednesday and I'm 950 miles away.  Their customer service is great, they pack things perfectly and they ship immediately.  Couldn't be happier dealing with them.

SurfSource:  If your reading this I'd like to see you guys carry the S-Box system.  I'd also like to see the Standard Boxes in white.  Thanks for everything.

 

I'll stick to the original thanks. Good luck with the S plugs, shapers are a great bunch of people, haven't bought much from them but they've always been good to deal with. Their fins are good too.

 

mako224, Interesting you talk about spamming my friend, this is your post! LOL. I was just making sure people got their facts straight, no reason for me to spam. Nice to see you support the guys at surf source, good on you. Sorry to upset you Bro. Mahalo,Larry

Alright, I’ll bite, how’s it better?

Different fins for Probox? they take FCS too. Maybe you missed that part?

Cheaper? Yah, I would expect it to be cheaper. Seems pretty obvious to me.

In regards to Probox, you say “locked in” in regards to adjustable cant? How can you be “locked in” on something that’s adjustable???

I’m a huge fan of adjustable cant. It has made all the difference on several different boards for me. Like night and day difference. All the other box / fin manufacturers will tell you it doesn’t matter and you don’t need to adjust it but, underfoot, it makes a huge difference. As far as I know, only Proboxy and Four Way Fin Systems offers adjustable cant.

I’m sure the Standard Box is simple and strong just like the box it seems to be patterned after.

I’ve never picked up an Standard Box so I’m really wondering how/why you feel it’s BETTER than the Probox that it seems that they imitated.

You’re stoked on them? Great. Why the animosity?

No animocity.  Its all good.  But then again this topic had nothing to do with ProBox or any other box style system til other people took it there. 

 

Going back to the original topic.  What caught my eye with the S-Plug system was that it does not anchor thru to the deck the way FCS does.  I’ve had FCS in my boards ever since they first came out and the one thing I always disliked with FCS was how the decks would cave in around the plugs.  That’s why when I began building boards again I went to the Standard boxes.  The Standard and Probox style boxes don’t anchor thru to the deck.   

If the claim of these being strong enough without having to anchor to the deck is true, I think these would be a winner.  Hoping to hear some more feedback.

Ray------------  The patent ran out.  They can do whatever they want now.  I actually like the "Standard Fin System "  that Surf Source sells.  Accepts FCS fins, easy install after glass and inexspensive.  Larry and Robin have a great product as well that has some unique advantages.  That said;  Futures is fantastic as well.  Fin Solutions in Ozz makes a similar product to the Standard System.  Lots of choices.  Sometimes when a factory or shop are building boards for inventory you have to go with the most bang for the buck.  A system that is inexspensive, accepts other manufacturers fins and doesn't fail or is not inherently weak.  Otherwise if it's custom the buyer will specify what system he wants.  Futures has made big inroads into production shops over the last few years.  Oh! and don't forget O'Fish'l.  They aren't as popular as they used to be(primarily due to advertising) , but are still a good system and are close to Futures' design and install.   I still like FCS plugs and alot of glass shops still use 'em.   Like I said lots of choices.  Which is good for all boardbuilders;  Backyard or Industry types.

Hi there Gill - how did you get about shortening your drill bit? I’m fearful of just sawing it off with a metal saw and ending up screwing it up…

I’ve got a WHC10-HSS holesaw pilot drill.

Alternatively, does anyone else know of other pilot drills which are shorter? This one is like 2cm long - far too long would probably go through to the deck on the center fin plugs if I tried…

Cheers.

Hey Cayman,

Whenever I layout the template for any fin system I always pilot drill prior to holesawing first with a 2mm bit to keep everything centred. I have shortened the drill bit for my hole saw so it extends about 4mm longer than the teeth on the saw. This is easy to do, just work out the length you need (plus a few mmm), grind a decent notch on either side of the drill bit at that length (on the helix end!!!), wrap the drill bit in a rag and place in a metalworking vice with the notches just above the jaws. Give it a tap with a hammer and the hardened steel of the drill bit will braek at the notches. Then you just re grind the cutting edge of the drill and you should be right.

Easy!!

Take care…

Got it, thanks heaps mate.