I was wondering, what are the differences between the S2 glass sheets, and the warp? Another thing, at tap plastics the sell 3.7oz and 5.8oz. Do other glass companies round up to 4 and 6 or is this glass just weird? thanks
I was wondering, what are the differences between the S2 glass sheets, > and the warp? Another thing, at tap plastics the sell 3.7oz and 5.8oz. Do > other glass companies round up to 4 and 6 or is this glass just weird? > thanks …Glass weights are for the most part rounded off to the nearest whole number…UNLESS YOU ARE A VERY EXPERENCED GLASSER…stay away from S-glass.The E-glass is much easier to work with .The S-glass is stronger,but it doesnot conform as well to the blank(springy),it also(S-glass)falls apart/strings when cutting much easier than E-glass.Herb…again,check the archives.
Hey herb…JC here…just as an afterthought… any comment on how to keep your glass from fraying during lamination when you are doing the laps…especially the first lamination (bottom)? I have finally been succsessful at getting rid of pin air at the lapline after doing the deck lam after the bottom but I still get more fraying than I would like. Maybe i’m applying too much pressure w/ the squeegie as i lap the rail. Any way i know if ican get a nice clean lap from the bottom lamination it’ll make alot less work when I doo the top! JC
J.C… Fraying is a natural bi-product of the laminating prosess. If you start your laps from the center of the board (moving toward the ends)lap the frayed glass down the rail rather than across the deck.Herb
I was wondering, what are the differences between the S2 glass sheets, > and the warp? I have used S glass in a few boards – seems to add good tensile strength. Not too much gain in compression strength. Have used it in sailboards as it is the recommeded product. I stopped useing it in surfboards as it makes the board surf really stiff – I like the flex E cloth provides – and it is a good value for the money. As herb mentioned, S will not wet-out easily – if you use it – particularly on a cool day, use a real slow kick, it takes time for the resin to soak in. If you are worried about breakage – you may want to consider custo ordering a blank with a larger stringer from Clark – it will only cost a little more. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine
I am doing that now and its ok. I’m working towards the goal of really clean laps that lay down even and nicley so i have less air along the rail line when i complete the top lamination. Sanding the rough edges is a solution to that but when i’ve got color on the rails i almost always scrape some of the color off which means reapplying the color and waiting for that to dry completely befor moving on. You know the drill i’m sure. such is the tribulation of apprenticeship. (p.s. resin fumes has affected my spelling) JC
I am doing that now and its ok. I’m working towards the goal of really > clean laps that lay down even and nicley so i have less air along the rail > line when i complete the top lamination. Sanding the rough edges is a > solution to that but when i’ve got color on the rails i almost always > scrape some of the color off which means reapplying the color and waiting > for that to dry completely befor moving on. You know the drill i’m sure. > such is the tribulation of apprenticeship. (p.s. resin fumes has affected > my spelling) JC…Make sure that you push some resin over the lap onto the blank,this will allow you a little room for error.If this is to difficult to do all at once,you can finish your lamination on the bottom(first lam.),then go back with a little cup of lam resin,before laming the deck(not a waxed cup like Jim P. LEARNED THE HARD WAY!)spreading it with a brush or bondo blade down the rail off the lap and onto the foam a couple of inches or so…Also, if you are getting air in your lams it’s most likely the cause of a colder/slower set-off time,this is okay,but as the resin saturates the blank it pulls air in ,and forces gases out of the blank(air bubbles).What I do in these cases is: mix-up a 4-8oz. batch of really(15cc to 8oz) hot lam resin and spread it over the entire lam ,rails and all.This will seal the colder batch and prevent air bubble forming under the glass.ALSO COMBINING THE STEPS…GET IT!Herb.
I was wondering, what are the differences between the S2 glass sheets, > and the warp? Another thing, at tap plastics the sell 3.7oz and 5.8oz. Do > other glass companies round up to 4 and 6 or is this glass just weird? > thanks Unless you are using epoxy or vinyl ester the benifits of S-glass will do little for you as the resin will break before the glass does. However either of those resins will work well with e-glass and provide a good combination. The glass companies don’t round the numbers, the surfboard manufacturing industry does. Speaking of which hexcel’s warp 6oz is an actual 6oz glass. Finally if you buy your glass and or resin from Tap you will pay to much. Try giving Doug at fiberglasssupply.com a call, he will hook you up with what you need and at a reasonable price. Good Luck, Matthew Weaver
YOU’RE RIGHT it is the builders that round off the numbers NOT the manufacturers…but surfboardsupply’s prices are ALOT!!! more than what I pay,and it’s not just exclusive to me…it’s to the general public…try about $10 cheaper on a gallon of resin from Basham’s,and even cheaper from another supplier.Herb.
FORGOT TO ADD: I was checking out fiberglass Supply’s website,and noticed they have a larger variety ( different types ) of materials… that alot of suppliers don’t.Herb.