San Diego April 20-25

woohoo bernie !

 

  mr. x , liam mcnamara , matt branson ... the list goes on

 

what could be BETTER eh ?

 

  maybe throw in a short john with fluoro booties , matching the superman jocks ...

 

 

  meanwhile , on the p issue ....

 

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In my old age, I'm wearing draw string pants. My daughter says I look like a farmer with these baggy jeans, but it's so comfortable. Draw string shorts and draw string pants. Don't need zippers anymore. If draw string pants are good enough for martial arts, it's good enough for me.

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Around the Resinhead household we call that outfit...Day & Nightwear

very fashionable indeed.

way to go Alama’s…after all part of what keeps you warm in a wet suit is when you wet your self… i  not thrilled about swimming in my own pee but the thought of swimming in someones else’s really turns me off…that’s why i don’t like to go to public pools that is frequented by alot of kids…kinda reminds me of a sign i read at a friends pool,  ‘you don’t pee in my pool, i won’t swim in your swim in your cesspool’…

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...Ben my speedos are black, my wetsuit is black, my hair is black.....

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 hiya harry !

 

  maaaate ,  you are a minority here ?!

 

  ... firstly , you STILL have hair ?!

 

  secondly ... it's not ...er...'silver'  [ which is politically-correctedness-bullshit-speak , for grey or white ...ha]

 

 It would be an interesting experiment to see if you stayed there in cold cali for a year or two , if the cold turns hair white quicker , or maybe it just makes it fall out , completely ??

 

[ perhaps though , that is more just a reflection of the median age of the users , at 'swaylock's ... aka  the old farts club , eh ?  ;) ]

 

  If you like , I can send some pink banana hammocks to you and Bernie. Maybe some pink hair dye , perhaps one of M.R. 's 1977 wetsuits , and fluoro boards . Then , as Bernie said , you can REALLY [visually, at least !] 'pollute' the loma waters ,  with your outlandish behaviour / attire  [ .... but , NOT with your "stylin' 70s hawaiian lopez surfing" though , of course ?!  heheh ]

 

  will you be driving 'mini mokes' [google it] in cold cali , then , guys ?!

 

 if so ,   my guess is you would have one with a ROOF on it , in that case ....wouldn't want ya 'shakas' to snap freeze , eh , harry ... 'cos that could make paddling a [frozen] wee bit difficult , eh ?

 

  i'm sure you guys will have a lot of fun there , ? maybe even get to meet a few swaylockians ? [HOPEFULLY ?!] , get some waves , and hopefully make some friends for life . After all, it's probably not every day that they get invaded by two hawaiian brothers , i'm thinking ?!

 

yes bernie , if you 'must' [haha] ...

 

..... by all means please take some photos of yourselves in the local[es] . It would be an interesting juxtaposition , i'm thinking , two very tanned  blokes surrounded by er whiteys everywhere [the land-borne variety , hopefully NOT the ocean-going nasties variety , that is !]

 

   cheers and

 

.....have fun , you guys !

 

  ben

 

p.s. -

 just let me know if you want any fluoro pink [facial] zinc , to top off your surfing outfits , eh ? At the very least ,  definately ride some COLOURED boards , if you 'must' wear black everything else , eh guys ? You know , ya gotta "stand out" ,  in them thar 'gopro' shots , remember ??!!  ha 

 

[like my signature says .....

way ahead of you Ben

been using ZINKA war paint for decades

as messy as that stuff is its the only thing that stays on for 4-6 hour sessions

never got burned with the warpaint on maybe some zits but never any sunburn

just too bad it get’s on everything else too!

Even got some of that neon colored wax they’re selling these days neon pink, neon lime and neon yellow.

good for making big wax smiliey faces on your board to remind you its all supposed to be “fun”

 

And as far as pink

always loved it for “extreme” gear like surfboards or powder ski’s or ski clothes so they can find you later…

The first two surfboards I got from Country Surfboards Haleiwa when I started again in 1990 after a 15+ year lay off were all pink.

All time favorite boards for my brother and I that I still have over 20 year later.

A dear hard core ski buddy of mine who died a horrible death in front of his fiance free rock climbing used to always tell me that when the sh*t hits the fan and you are on the verge of death hanging by a couple fingers, you gotta “think pink” to get through. Never forgot that saying and my friend wondering what what he was thinking falling hundreds of feet to death on the rocks below. I still can hear him reminding me to “think pink” as we jumped off some big cornice high atop Whistler Mountain to shoot the peak below in chest deep snow.

Yea so “Think PInk” is always on my mind when things are sketchy

Don’t know the reason but I notice Jamie Sterling has adopted the color for his equipment  as well. 

And eventhough my brother claims his face is black, his okole and parts that never see the sun are as white as everyone else’s.

I learned that truth from my dad along time ago, that when it comes to prejudice, everyone’s okole is about the same color

ain’t no big thing

funny when think of neon I think of a gloved Mr X

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eh Alama braddas,  you guys are brave baggas… using somebodys wetsuit is like sloppy seconds and terriable thirds…das why i don’t surf in cold water, i to cheap to buy one wet suit for one time surf…nah only joke… aloha, ike

Hey Ike, Bernie bought 2 new full suits from a discount vendor for me to try. I tried a 4/3 this morning that should be just right. He also got a 3/2 but it’s 2 sizes smaller. No more sloppy seconds, going to do it right.

The way things are going here, the full suits maybe the best thing to get me in the water at dawn. Been so damn cold this year. So many guys are wearing the wetsuits with the short sleeves and legs, others have heavy long sleeve tops. Boogey boarders are wearing full suits.

hawaiian board omiyage (pollution)for the san diego crew coming soon

bettah than pee,

bettah than poi

so onolicious it going broke da mouth 

so you forget UR name

(aloha no Joe Francis aloha no)

 

JA’s GEM#2 5’4" x 19 5/8" x 2 5/8"

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CP’s Cork Gun 8’1" x 20 x 3.25"

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oneula and sharkcountry will be visiting the lower tech lab today (just south of beautiful OB)…with a side trip to Plus One I believe…feel free to swing by and say howzit if anyone is in the neighborhood…  surf is small today but probably longboardable and it is going to be sunny and clear… good glassing weather.

Someone take some pics…for Chipfins.

Bernie has his ggo prose have our phone cameras too.

Bernie and Harry picking up the new PlusOne Asymm from George Gall.  Is jealousy really such a bad sin?

[img_assist|nid=1074246|title=Oneula and SharkCountry come to Plus One for a visit, talk story.|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=478|height=640]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oneula and SharkCountry pause for a photo.  Greg Griffin’s shape, going to be good back home!

Aloha guys ,

                      Was the asym board based on a Griffin shape ? Is that a rocket shape or similiar and how long is that Griffin your holding in the picture ? Surf fotos please and a ride report on the asym when you get some time in ?

                      Have a great  trip and getwet .                       James

You ask a lot of questions? 

 Please ponder this first:  Q: What if you saw this riding around your backyard?  Q: What would you feed it? Q; If you didn't feed it do you think it would revolt? Q: Does it wear underpants...or is it potty trained?  Q: Does it like dogs?

 

no… George has his own assym design. 

Rocket… 8’

assym… 8’

gro pro camera died no photos. 

O K  Resinhead ,

 

             I don’t know how to answer all those questions . Inquiring minds want to know . Thats what happens at 4 in the morning waiting for surf and it was fun this am 50 degree water and girls in bikinis  .

 

                Sorry about the go pro .Next time I won’t ask so many questions ?

 

                               Thanks Oneula n  Shark country

 P.S. Oh  Where we gon eat lucch today and how was the surf ?    just kiddin !

 

 

 

 

 

Oneula, Shark, you guys getting in the water?  We will need a full report.

You’re kidding right??  That Mo’Fo’ was my my landlord on Maui.  That’s why we had all the banana trees in the back yard.

sorry my last post dissappered

we’ve been enjoying the hospitality of Keith, friends and family here in Point Loma. Yesterday we mostly watched Keith do a swirl glass job on the board he built for his brother. Lee V came over to gloss Heather’s polka dot fish and showed us his “fishing” line of surfboards. Heather came by to talk story and watch as well she wanted to gloss her purple and green swirl with sparkles fun board but all the racks were spoken for.

later we went over to George’s shop to pick up my new Assym and the Griffin I got from Greg Tate. Ended up there for over 2 hours talking stories with george. I dropped off a spiderman Alexander Gemini for George to experience and learn what we’ve know about for almost a decade. George is a great guy and we both kind of share the same frankenstein stomach scars except his is bigger.

later we came back and met Jay and  Jordan who was painting his new board, We all went surfing in some almost non existant waves at a garbage place. It was hot and sunny so there was allot of crazy inlanders at the beach. water was cold but the sky was bright and sunny. i ended up paddling off to the side where i saw a couple peaks breaking as i didn’t want to add to the instant 5 surfer crowd we brought to the lineup to that one longboarder sitting out there by him lonesome.

Got to try my new Assym and the board did not dissapoint me one iota eventhough the waves were dismal. The board paddled out better than any  board i had of sn size, floaty, light and  turned on a dime. dropped it twice on the rocks after getting out and not one nick. George put allot of magic with the reverse Assym, ifoam apoxy,  special bottom, rocker and fin placements worth every penny. It all works, may not be pretty or understandable but bottomline is that it works as promised and i am a happy camper. Thanks george! And f the art BS. Pretty boards are only pretty until the first major ding or pressures start to show up. Maybe thats why so many are chickensht to ding their board on purpose anymore shooting them when someone drops in. 

anyway we fryed the go pro and i was stupid enough to use my regular camer yesterday. Ill try and usemy phone today so I can post. No waves but we’re having fun.

Like I’ve always said you don’t need to be or look hawaiian to be hawaiian. Keith and folks here in Pt Loma/San Diego epitomize what “being hawaiian” is all about. Something allot of folks could learn from these days.

 

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