Im having a go a sanding back an old log, have been using rough sandpaper, although it does leave a heap of little scrathes on the surface from the hard sanding. These will come out when a polish coat goes on right??
Your scratches and gouges will be filled with gloss coat, but you should sand to about 100 grit, If your putting any new color on the board you should sand to 220 grit then gloss. If you want to see what the board will look like when its polished out before its done, put some Acetone on a rag and wipe it on the suspect spot. This will also show you if your pin holes are going to be filled and cleared up. If you doing an old 60 board I’d recommend sanding to the cloth, re-hot coating, Sand the new hot coat smooth to 150 grit, glossing, polishing. Lots of dirty work but it will look really nice and flat -Jay
Will this technique work on my 67 Weber Performer that has some minor light spots? I though I would 120 the whole thing, then gloss it?Trev
If you got a nice 67 Weber, leave it alone. Just seal the dings as usual and surf. It will be worth more as an original board.
That old longboard im sanding is coming up unreal, it was painted on the bottom, so the foam is still white, the top was slightly yellowed, but now its cleaned up to a dull white once I got rid of the patchy old resin and crap. cant wait to surf it.
My buddy wants to rework his old boards, an old 5 stringer hobie and Hanon(never heard of the name) and they need ALOT of work, but he just wants to do basic stuff, nothing major. Meanwhile they need a new fin, which should be replaced with a fin box at this point it’s so beat up, tons of ding repair and some tail repair. They’ll look nice either way, I would just love to see them full restored. Post some photos of the board when you’re done. Did you take any before you started?
I think Hannon was a Long Island board builder back in the 60’s. Check the archive here, I think you’ll find a little info.