The simple truth is you’re a whining wanna be who’s full of know it all shit. Is that plain enough for you. Lowel
NJ---------One problem(depnding on temps, humidity, climate, air circulation etc.): If you let it REST too long you run the risk of slabbing as pictured in fitzy’s original post. That’s why you should walk it out into UV or put it in the UV box for a count of ten to “flash” it. Then you can let it rest all you want. Then as you stated let the wax rise and stick it back in the box or walk it out for cure. It just isn’t as complicsted as often stated here on Sways. Simple steps followed yield consistant results.
Howzit reverb, Gees I grew up believing it was 2 weeks minimum to cure out your board. Or is this pertain to UV resin. Aloha,Kokua
Howzit McDing, It’s like that flash makes the resin a bit more stable that can’t slab but not enough to keep the wax down. Aloha,Kokua
I just wanted to add that these things are really good for cleaning gummed-up sanding discs - it’s basically a giant eraser. This one is an Australian-made product, but there must be a US equivalent. JD
Yes. I worked in a cabinet shop for a number of years and we had a 24" belt sanding machine. Ungumming the belts was done with one of those eraser things. About 2"x2"x 8". Not sure how effective they’d be on resin, though. We were removing residue left by various types of wood we were sanding.
Also, I’d say the slabbing shown in that pic was more the result of too much resin, period. Doesn’t really matter how long it ‘rested’. A lot of excess resin is going to be problematic whatever the case. Besides, that’s the hotcoat and much of it just gets sanded off, anyway. So it’s also a waste of resin.
And, here’s the thing about poly resin and how fast it kicks. In an ideal situation, you want your resin to catalyze as slowly as possible. This is because poly resin undergoes a molecular process in which ‘chains’ are formed. Fast formation results in short, random chains of molecules which are weaker. The more gradual that molecular process is, longer and more uniform chains will form, which are inherently stronger. In simpler terms, quick kick means brittle resin. Slow kick is more flexible and stronger.
So, it’s a bit of a balancing act. You don’t want your resin to take forever, or maybe not cure at all. Conversely, really fast hardening makes for brittle and weaker glass jobs.
…hello Kokua, may be due to not had that constant temp in Winter?
-Hello SammyA, yes that’s exactly the process.
McDing, no doubt you are a mediocre man without much education; incredible but this Aussie, Yorky smelled it long time ago and had good reason.
I m wrote a true and right thing about poly resins and your responses do not support anything except sarcasm and lack of education.
Talking about wannabe; you are the first - a ding man trying to be a board builder…still we have not seen your work here
I saw that on shapers Aust and thought it was a gimmic! about $19 I think
Maybe I should have bought one after my last hot coat failure!
I have found that when using UV, it is best to catalize, let kick, then UV to speed up drying process.
If you are putting down a laminate of some kind,
you have to catalize.
Artwork wont let UV kick the resin underneath.
The resin under the laminate will never kick.
Problems are certain.
Catylist is your friend.
Sometimes, it’s better to just ignore someone when they sink to personal insults.
I have hear numerous times that you can’t use resin tints with uv cure lam resin is this 100%true or do some colors work?
Thanks for the heads up on laminates I was going to do a fabric inlay but I guess that wouldn’t cure --cheers to all the advice I appreciate you guys
I want to give a try to a resin tint. I’be been thinking about the colored future fin boxes, should I tape the entire surface of the box and then cut the tinted cloth over the box so the original color remains? I was thinking about doing that and after place a patch with clear resin over it.
I’m I thinking it right?
I guess that is what this guys do, at least for the lap from the deck of the board.
Thanks
Yes that’s it. Flash it and the resin won’t move.
I have some lams that are yellow background. I always mix a dixie cup of catalyzed resin just for the lam. After it’s squeegied down, I flip the glass over and start right in with UV no catalyst. Yeah I have had a hotcoat slab before and I have had a hotcoat stay gummy because the wax didn’t rise. Once I found out what I did wrong and changed up my technique I never had any more problems. I’m only trying to pass on a simple technique to avoid the kind of problem pictured at the beginning of this thread. All of you Sways Bros can do it any friggin’ way you want. West Coast, East Coast or Down in the lower lats where they speak broken barely understood broken English. I could give a fuck. I was trained on UV in 1997 by a very good Santa Cruz Glasser.
I’ll try to use my best broken english here and maybe you’ll comprende( should I speak Portugese). I posted several pic of finished boards here last year (short and long). But I will not post pics on this site again as posting pics here resulted in a complete crash of my desktop due to Sway bugs, worms, viruses and script errors. The notebook I use exclusively for cruising this site is screwed up as a result of this site, but still finctions so I only use it for Sways. There are a couple of pics around on the worldwide web if you Google Little Hawaii Surf Design. But I really don’t give a fuck what some know it all who can barely speak English thinks of me. I haven’t digressed back to ding repair since I left Maui in 2006, but unlike you I’m not above doing it if it pays the bills. At least I don’t cry and whine on public forums about the lack of recognition I get like you do. Never heard anybody cry the blues like you . Especislly over on Industry Talk in the RL thread. Pass the kleenix reverb’s on a cryin’ jag. Go with God hombre. Lowel
Fitzy88 - tints work just fine if you use a little catalyst in your UV resin.
I no longer use polyester, but did a long stint with UV resin in it’s early days. I moved from using a separate catalysed mix just for logos, to using a little bit of catalyst in the whole lot.
The reason for this was twofold - catalysed resin…at least back then…was a slightly different colour to straight UV, so it’d end up with a visible ugly looking smear around the logos.
Secondly - without catalyst, the drips on the floor would not cure - you would be resigned to walking in sticky shit forever.
The green Lost board looks great - they have circumvented the problem of ugly coloured patches over the plugs by routing through the lam and then patches over in clear, I’d suggest.
JD
Yes. Always catalyze tints and opaques. UV rays will have difficulty penetrating the tint or pigment. If you are using UV; just catalyze like you normally would if you were using plain old laminating resin like Silmar 249.
There’s a reason it is known as a “Hotcoat”. If we did what you are describing it would be a “slow coat” and #1 --the wax wouldn’t rise properly, resulting in “gummy” sanding. #2 There would be a high possibilty that you would wind up with exactly what fitzy88 posted in his pic. that started this thread—“slabbing”. Genarally you DO know what you are talking about. I’m having difficulty understanding why you would recomend less catalyst in a “Hotcoat”. Hope it’s not just for the sake of being argumenitive. But hey you’re intitled to your opinion.
Hey man why don’t you tell us your real name and where you are from. Maybe then we’ll realize that we are in the presense of a god.