I apologize if there is a thread for this exact problem in advance.
What would be causing this in both sanding coat (uv cure) and my gloss coat is worse (uv cure as well)
Picture below is of sanding coat I let sit for 5 minutes before bringing it out to light for 10 sec then back inside for 30 sec then back outside to full cure Temp is 60degrees
Its a nightmare to sand its gooing up sand paper like crazy this hasnt happened in forever. please help!!!
Your hot coat is on heavy and it is not fully cured.
Always use some mekp in your hotcoat. Let it cure and THEN take it out side to flash it.
Your ridges are probably coming from your hotcoat moving when you walk it outside.
You are also probably only cured on the top surface of the hotcoat and not all the way through due to that dark color under it. This is the reason for your gummy paper.
Solution- let it sit over night and then stick it back in the sun tomorrow for 20 to 30 mins and then let it sit for a couple of hours and try to sand it again.
Thanks for reply! Its weird that before I start to walk it out I can see those little lines forming where its uneven. its like I know its going to happen before it does type thing.
Ill try the MEKP and pray for better results thanks again bud.
That is what I call avalanching.
Too much resin,
maybe not cross stroked?
Gravity in motion.
If you want a thick Hot-coat,
do it twice.
There’s your answer; In your own words. You let it set for five minutes. As soon as you have got the resin on, walk it outside and flash it for a count of ten. Take it back inside and let it sit until you see the resin turning cloudy. Then put it back under UV to set. As someone mentioned; you probably are getting too much resin on. The purpose of cross-stroking is to pull off excess resin. To save it and get rid of the gummy resin; Re-hotcoat it and follow my instructions. You should be able to sand it then without the gumminess. Anyone who tells you that you have to catalyze UV doesn’t know what they are talking about. I’ve been using UV since the year it came out. Follow simple instructions and you have no problems. If you do, you can fix it by re-hotcoating. We tried using UV Gloss and it just never worked out. Catalyze Reichold. It’s the best. Forget about the rest. Lowel
Mcding- your the man I appretiate all the feed back you have no idea!
Gummy sandpaper is usually a result of over-brushing the resin. It disturbs the surface agent and prevents it from rising to the top. Those streaks look like a typical example of same. That big slab of resin on the left by the rail means you have too much resin.
I had a couple of those before I learned to add catalyst to the UV cure and pull more resin off. Gummed up a bunch of paper, but sanded normally after i got thru the top layer. Keep at it. Maybe it’ll get better. Mike
whats the point of using uv for a hot coat, catalyst is quick and easy no ?
what he said just because you have sun res doesnt mean you have to use it for everything
So if I still have sun cure sanding resin left does that me I can just use MEKP to catalyst it like normal old fashioned sanding resin??
yep
By all means us catalyst in your hot coat, let it kick then cure it in the sun. Did it that way for years and never had a problem. Aloha,Kokua
Catalyst isn’t necessary with UV resin. Just follow simple instructions and you can easily do a “one day” board – sanded finish, cured and ready to ride. The reason people use it is that it is FAST! Doesn’t require cure time, gives a laminator more time to work the cloth and IMO results in a stronger glass job, I’ll say it again: The best kept secret in the industry. If you don’t believe me cruise over to IndustryTalk forum and check out the video tour of the Channel Islands factory posted by fiberglassHi. People in the Industry don’t waste time catalyzing UV because---- No Need. Learn how to use it right and other than plugs, boxes certain colors that are UV sensitive like red, orange,yellow and you will never need to catalyze. Having said that; You can catalyze UV just like you would catalyze plain old Silmar 249. When you’re good and have figured UV out you can even do cutlaps without catalyst. Lowel
Howzit McDing, I used UV for years and never used catalyst on cut laps. Never even thought about using it, I did thousands of boards before UV ever came to be. UV took the hard part out of glassing because people didn’t have to worry about the resin kicking before the job was done. Plus cut laps are easy and I did them for years. Aloha, Kokua
Howzit Kokua---- Good to hear you endorse what I have said many times before when this topic comes up.
…for your information, 12 hours is the UV post curing time…
First of all 99% of the time a new board never leaves the shop within twelve hours of it’s finish. So that’s not a problem, if what you say were true… Maybe where you live. For your information and reverberation.
…hey Mcding you are in a pissing contest mode always.
I specified what happens with the Poly UV resins to have a complete post cure time and that s true; I do not talking what a factory does or does not with their boards; so I stated a chemical reaction not a production deal.
That information would be good for the guy who finished the board and go to the surf immediately after. Anyway, if you react with that sarcasm every time that some one state something that you do not know… What happened to a person like you if in the past some one told you that for the poly resins you need 7 x 24 x 25ºC to fully cure? that sounds more incredible for the guy that not in the known…
I get my best reesults with UV when I lay it out fast, don’t leave an excessive amount of resin on the board, don’t overbrush, and let it REST before taking it outside. With all this in mind, the most important thing for me to do is mix up and pour out the correct amount of resin… which means you won’t be over brushing to get the excess off. Then… let that wax rise. Give it time. A few extra minutes will be sure to let it flow out right, and give time for all the wax to get to the surface. I lightly catalyze my resin so that the drips on the floor will kick. I’m not relying on the catalyst to cure the resin on the board… that’s what the UV is for, IMO.
