Needs some sanding, although I won’t brush on a 2nd coat. Can I sand the deck and bottom like poly? Maybe start with #100 then go up from there? Or better to start with a #180?? How far up? #400? #600?
Can I use Surfluster and then McGuire’s like poly to shine it up?
Thanks
First of all, are you sure the lam and hot coat is sealed completely?
If you are planning a sanded epoxy hotcoat, on a styro core, you’d better be sure.
Check closely for pinbubbles.
If it’s solid, you can sand with whatever grit is needed…more rough spots, grittier paper. As needed, most peeps start with 50, then 80, then 120, then gloss.
If you plan on your hotcoat as FINAL coat, it should be good enough to NOT need anything courser than 120, or the scratches are just too deep and will show after final polish.
Lots of people use paint as the “finish” coat, easily up to 3 coats, then a coat or 2 of clear acrylic.
First of all, are you sure the lam and hot coat is sealed completely?
If you are planning a sanded epoxy hotcoat, on a styro core, you’d better be sure.
Check closely for pinbubbles.
If it’s solid, you can sand with whatever grit is needed…more rough spots, grittier paper. As needed, most peeps start with 50, then 80, then 120, then gloss.
If you plan on your hotcoat as FINAL coat, it should be good enough to NOT need anything courser than 120, or the scratches are just too deep and will show after final polish.
Lots of people use paint as the “finish” coat, easily up to 3 coats, then a coat or 2 of clear acrylic.
Lam and hot are sealed. Clark blank. 5’9" M4 looking board. Two very small dry spots. This is a prototype so I can live with it. Hand sand the rails like poly?? First time with epoxy and it looks pretty good. Thanks.
“Dry spots” would bother me.
Just to be safe, take some spackle or epoxy/microballoon mix and had press it onto the dry spot, going over it a few times (wear gloves, like surgical).
Sure, like poly, but sometimes, epoxy doesn’t polish out quite as well, so don’t hold really high hopes.
Spray acrylics can work well.
Add durability, uv protection and get a perfect finish with system 3 wr-lpu urethane gloss finish. 100 dollars per gallon (can buy in quarts too). I can do 10-12 longboards with a gallon. A small investment for added protection.
sand second epoxy coat with 100 and 150 grit. For your board mix 10 oz of lpu gloss with 80 drops of chemical cross linker, add another 2 oz of water and stir well. Add to HVLP spray gun with a 45 psi air source. If you are not using a climate controlled well ventilated spray area, and are doing it outside…low humidity and warm sunny weather is a must for quick application.
Spray four coats on the top. letting each coat dry(approx 5 minutes) between application. Let last coat on top dry for 10 minutes then flip board over. Repeat bottom for 4 coats. Any additional urethane left in spray gun use on board. Wash/rinse spray gun with water. I let my boards dry for 24 hours then take 400 or 600 grit by hand for less than 1 minute of sanding to get any micro bumps off the finish. rinse with water and be amazed.
do not confuse this urethane with automotive urethane which is very pricey and smelly and difficult to use. This is a product for marine application which comes in gloss, satin and colored finishes. It’s water soluble, almost oderless, and safe to use with good ventilation and a dust mask. For me in mass production it saves time, saves money, adds durability and uv protection and beauty.
Below an example
how do you deal with pinholes when using your above method? do you fill em with drops of epoxy and sand em and then coat them or do you let the LPU fill em? ho well does it hide weave?
i have had nothing but great results with the lpu satin on many wood working projects and i think i’ll pick up a gallon of gloss for my next boards…
by the way i usually do three coats of the finish un crosslinked let dry a day or so light sand with 220 and then do two coats with crosslinked… but i am usually dealing with raised grain of wood due to the H20 in the lpu…
you second coat your board, sand with 100 grit, maybe to 150. rinse with water and this will give you an idea of what the LPU application will give you. If you find some weave not filled in with the second coat or really deep pits, spot drop some more epoxy and sand then check with water again. LPU will nicely correct minor blemishes. Maybe you should try to buff polish your next board and see how it compares.