I just completed sanding the hot coat on my first board and noticed there are “honeycombed” areas in various parts of the board. I searched through the archives and think this may be a result of a dusty environment when i hotcoated. I don’t plan on putting on a gloss coat; What are my options?
re-apply hotcoat and sand again?
shoot a clear coat with those automative spray cans to seal (as mentioned in the archives instead of gloss coat)
Correction on description - its not honeycombed as described…another friend just took a look at it and said they are pinholes filled with whitish dust from sanding in them…
Pinholes are pathways to the devil play ground. Repent to ye pinholes slave...
But I digress.
Glossing the board will fill any pinholes and seal up any sand through.. So gloss it and sand it down. You don't need to polish. but you need to seal it up.
Pinholes are the freeway to a watery foam death. Repent...REPENT!!!! RE..PPPPPPENT.
You can use UPOL or Krylon, but that's only if you have done a tight lamination. If this is your first board, I'm assuming your lam is about as tight as Marilyn Chambers
gloss coats don't even add a significant amount of weight...do a gloss and sand to 320. I think not stripping your wax often is more noticeable than a gloss coat's weight
if you have pinholes that are trapping dust after you sand a hotcoat, then your hot coat had something go awry. Most likely culprit would be over-zealous mixing in a failry hot batch. Gel time happened before all the little bubbles rose and were expelled at the surface.
SammyA, thanks for enlightening me on heat/mixing resin
it was a pretty hot day when i did the hot coat about a month ago…i mixed the UV resin w the SA…brushed it on…took it outside for 15 sec to kick…brought it back in for 15 mins for the wax to rise…took it outside to cure…flipped and repeated
what would be the best … redo the entire hotcoat? i have enough resin and SA…didnt buy any gloss coat resin but will if its the best solution.
this is my first build and it’ll take awhile to finish… i only get to work on it a couple hours a month…but enjoying every minute of it =)
I would either do a spray finish, just to seal it…or, if you don’t mind adding another coat, mix a batch with extra SA in it. I can’t tell you what ratio to use, but I’m sure someone else here can. The extra SA will thin the resin and get it to level out more like gloss resin does.
At this stage, you just want to seal it well and wind up with a decent finish.
Re: Pinholes in general…
I have a board that was shaped by a well known La Jollan guy. One of his labels translates to French as “Le Chambre Vert”. The board began to show little brown spots on the bottom after a year or more. Obvious pinholes wicking water to the foam. I made sure I sealed them all. I was under the impression he used a very reputable glass shop. ???
Howzit dfin, Eveyone has given you some great advise on what to do next except you need to get the white dust out of the pin holes first so whatever resin you use next will fill in the holes correctly. If you don't you will still have pin air holes no matter what you do.You can blow the dust out or vacumn it out or you can use a water hose with a sprayer on it and hit it with the water to get the dust out. Aloha,Kokua
Next time you use UV, let it sit for 5-10 min before you initially flash it. This will allow any bubbles to rise. To fix what you’ve got now, do what the others advised and use a 10% thinned gloss resin and regular catalyst. The thinned gloss will get into the pinholes better. You don’t need to sand it down to the cloth, but get it close and use 100 grit.
I used an incredible small drill bit on a small hometype electric drill. Poured some water onto the spot first and barely squeezed the trigger to kind of scrape it out, then used a paper towel to wipe after.Gel will fill the spot or you can sand more and then wipe out with a paper wet paper towel.