After sanding my latest project, there are a few imperfections, small holes and exposed weave, wot the best way to tidy up this?Ive heard of spay tec or just plain clear coat, can these be sanded after applied?Or even sanded gloss coat?
If there are a lot of these imperfections?? Re-hotcoat. Re-sand. You can do what we used to call a "piss coat". A thinned out coat of sanding resin. Then sand it by hand. If the "burn-thrus" are bad you may need to spot patch with some four oz. When this happens there is NO guarantee that cosmeticlly the board will look 100%. When a sander does a bunch of burn-thrus then glosses; all those spots will turn brown over time. Knew a guy on Maui who thought he was a board builder. He was a menace with a sander. All of his clear boards had brown spots all over them within days of first use.
I just got my newest personal back from a Sorrento Valley glass shop, it looks like it was sanded with a drill motor and 4" disk, there isn’t a 6" area that doesn’t have wheelies, I guess they don’t know what a sanding block is
Jim----I'm starting to think there is a shortage of good sanders. Wasn't happy with the last two or three I got back from down that way.
Have you got a mix ratio for a piss hot coat?
Knew you were going to ask. Back in the 90's when I got back into board building someone turned me onto the "piss coat" to cure my aggresive sanding of poorly brushed hot coats. Haven't had to do it in years; but I think it was a 10% styrene/acetone mixed with sanding resin. Don't over do it. If you do you'll be brusing it with nothing but acetone. Sand by hand. Lowel
I recommend a sanded gloss cut with10% sytrene + 5% surface agent. This goes on so smoothly that you can hand sand starting at 320 (220 on the tape lines).
Sorry if i not up to speed, only a back yarder, wot do u mean bye a surface agent? I know wot styrene is and styrene with wax . I have both.
surfacing agent, mod C, wax solution, all the same animal, it creates a barrier between air and the resin allowing it to harden without a tacky surface, before any of these, a green soap solution was painted on the hardened resin to act like surfacing agent
Just thought I would ask here but do any of you guys sand the hot coat to 120 then re hot coat.
If you want to do that then why not 80 if poly or 60 if epoxy? Less work with the sander.
A second hotcoat is for covering up bad sanding. Lay down a really nice hotcoat. Tipped off, no excess, no puddles, separation or brush marks. If you do a nice hotcoat you can start with 120 or even 180. Every time I do a hotcoat my thought as I lay it down is; Will I be able to start this with 180. Lowel
[quote="$1"] After sanding my latest project, there are a few imperfections, small holes and exposed weave, wot the best way to tidy up this?Ive heard of spay tec or just plain clear coat, can these be sanded after applied?Or even sanded gloss coat? [/quote]
follow your heart.....every single surfboard that I have sanded has some sort of problem...backyard hack here......ever wonder why Stingray and Crew do a 2nd hot coat on most surfboards...that would be epoxy resin......not piss coat.
sand the surfboard....patch all the flaws...sand the flaws.....one more super nice coat of resin.....
In the backyard we have time.........time to do it right or time to do it over......sometimes working slow is faster.
Stingray
Thanks for the reply mcding. Its interesting because the guys who glass my boards use this process and there probably the best glass shop in australia.
To each is own. Especially in foreigh lands. I suppose it's all in how you're taught. One hotcoat in glass shops in Calif. and Hawaii. Provided nothing goes wrong with the hotcoater. Too thick and heavy, too thin and pissy. Was the hotcoater hung over?? loaded?? etc. I've been in two of the Very best glass shop in Hawaii and Calif. One good hotcoat is supposed to do the trick. Lowel
What if you have never worked in a glass shop? What if you have no clue what is hot coat and what is gloss. Workers loaded or hungover?
you're fired............Ha Ha....
take a long look at your sanding inperfections......pick up a sanding block........sand out the problems...add some resin...sand some more.........perefect......got it.......surfboards are easy....people problems are hard.
What do you do when your workers are all loaded or stoned? I would fire all of them!
I left a voice mail to a glass shop this week, if I sprayed a water base primer on my new board and then hit it with a sanding block, the low spots would look like leopard spots, I’ve neve seen a “professional” sand job that had this many wheelie hits, there isn’t an area 6" square that is flat, the “sander” must have been holding the machine like it was a skil saw. The guys from Bing keep coming down to my end to get a view of the worthless piece of shit sanding, the guy begged me for work and the cost was 385 clear with fusion boxes, like Stingray says “you’re fired”
Flat… I can get.
Burn-throughs… almost never.
Single hotcoats… always.
Wheelies… ALWAYS. What am I doing wrong? People have said too high rpms… wrong paper… moving through grits too quickly… I just can’t seem to get it right.
Keep it flat. Medium on the flats. Softie on the curves. Hand sand the rails at each grit. Block the flats by hand if need be.
Great tips guys!, I have been struggling to get a really flat sand too , a second hotcoat is an option but more weight etc although I think it makes a far better board than a spray finish anyways. Also Check the bearings on your sanders, had issues with mine where it was ‘shuttering’ a little so that makes it really hard to get a real flat finish as it leaves little dents…