Just finished the lam and layed a logo over the opaque finish, i thought it would be a good idea to sand down the edges of the fibreglass square i cut out but now I have the tacky resin smeared all around the area. Is their a way to remove this .
Cheers Zac
just hotcoat it then sand as usual. I wouldnt try sanding now as it can show after.
cheers
rich
www.thirdshade.com
Even laminating resin will cure in the absence of air. Cover in wax paper, and weigh down with a trashbag of sand. (Vacuum bag is better, but assume you don’t have one). Come back tomorrow, and sand away.
Next time, cover with wax paper or shrink wrap when still wet. Peel off after cured. It will “self hotcoat” and make life easier. I do this on ding repairs.
Always put your lam/logo down on the lammed cloth. Use two pieces of four ounce cloth over the lam/logo. One slightly larger that the lam/logo and another about two or three inches larger than the first. Then hotcoat the entire board. The larger patch will help insure that you do not burn thru with the sander and ruin your lam/logo. Be careful sanding. Light pressure at the lam/logo. Don't bare down. Heat created by over sanding will delam the lam/logo. Remove the smeared resin with a very clean cotton rag dipped in acetone on the end of your gloved fingers(assuming you are using poly). No need to shrink wrap or vacum bag if done properly. Never sand lam resin, with exception of grinding laps. It'll turn the sanded area brown(heat) and smear the lam resin.
Hey McDing,
Just clarifying your thoughts, Are you saying to put down your typical 4 oz cloth, and then build up 8 oz of cloth over the lam? Is this the deck or bottom we are talking about. Just seems really heavy.
I often put the rice paper on the bottom in the fin area, over the first 4 oz. then, rather than the football patches, I put a 2 oz cloth over the whole area. Never had a problem. The green tape in the picture was for centering, since the board was stringerless.
[img_assist|nid=1063800|title=Placing the logo|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=498|height=875]
For the sake of clarification; For instance, you have laminated an opaque with whatever weight of cloth you desire. A four ounce, six ounce, six/four etc. Just the laminated board opaque no hotcoat. Determine where you want your lams and then do as I described. The weight is non-existent. Every glass shop in OC does it the way I described. Some only use one layer of four. A four ounce patch just larger than than the rice paper lam/logo and then another patch 2-3 inches larger. Hotcoat the entire board and you are ready for gloss or a speed finish. There's nothing heavy about it.
Thanks
Thanks Mcding that answers my question
Yeah it's really easy if you just stick to the technique. You will not have any future probs when it comes to putting down a lam/logo over an opaque. buena fortuna!
Just tried it out and it worked a charm, thanks MCding
backyarder warning
here I did a black pigment lamination with catalyzed UV cure
inkjet logo with white acrylic squeegeed over the back to make it opaque
laid it on the lam, covered with a piece of 2oz cloth about 2 inches larger than the logo, squeegeed down tight with lam resin. sun cure
lightly basted out past the edges of the cloth with hotcoat resin. sun cure
gently faired the edges with med pad & fresh 220g. Keep the sander over the logo try to keep the pad & paper at a slight angle just fair in the baste
normal hotcoat… no bumps
Don't understand the "backyarder warning" . Looks good to me.
Beautiful Bud!
~Brian