sea/swell 12/4/07 central Cal....

============= PG&E DCPP Weather Forecast for Tuesday 12/04/07 =============

SEA/SWELL:

The #06-SE Papa buoy (600NM West of Eureka) and the #27-St Georges buoy

(8NM West Northwest of Crescent City), are no longer reporting data.

Both of these buoys may have been lost due to the storm.

The #59-California buoy (357NM West of San Francisco) reached 31.8 feet

(with a 20 second period) last night at 10:50 pm. The Cape Mendocino

waverider buoy reached 30 feet (with a 20 second period) earlier this

morning. There were no ship reports in the vicinity of yesterday’s

952 mb storm and it now appears that the winds were blowing at a

greater velocity than indicated on yesterday’s surface charts.

These stronger than predicted winds have generated a longer period

swell.

http://www.lajollasurf.org/buoys.html

WOW!

Hehehe…game on.

Saw Ryan (surferguy80) on his knealo thingamabob and almost got some pix, saw a broken Chinese board (which he had found on the beach), and had a fun session. Set waves were easily double overhead, though

Ryan overheard someone saying they were quadruple overhead…perhaps a mild exaggeration. Bummer about those buoys. Hope they aren’t the exploding kind.

–BCo

Drove along the coast from Carlsbad to Torrey Pines…every spot packed with bobbers in waist to occasional head high short period stuff with a bad residual northwest wind bump.

Good Neumatic surf…

Pretty disorganized up here, lane at 2-3x overhead. In Capitola, even down by the pier it was a decent size, but messy. Saw a few guys out at the lane getting solid drops but it was shouldering off pretty quick, not many real walls coming though.

Cliffs look good this afternoon. 100 guys out between North & South Garbage. Swell is just starting to hit, Harvest Bouy is at 18 ft @ 18 seconds and still building…that will be sending us some very solid, very appriciated surf by the morning. It gets any bigger down here and there are not that many places that will do well with a strong West

Surfed Pickleweed Pt at 10 am. Got a few head high waves, and a few sneakers broke way out the back. Tomorrow should be interesting to say the least.

It hasn’t hit San Diego yet, But it will be clean when it does…burn a candle, and sacrifice a chicken

http://facs.scripps.edu/cgi-bin/quickcheck#surf Southern California Surf Forecast[/url] Courtesy National Weather Service

FZUS56 KLOX 042208 SRFLOX SURF ZONE FORECAST NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE LOS ANGELES/OXNARD CA 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 .FOR THE BEACHES OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA…VALID WED DEC 5… CAZ041-051000- LOS ANGELES COUNTY COAST- 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 …HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 AM THURSDAY ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES… …HIGH RIP CURRENT RISK… .WEDNESDAY… SURF HEIGHT…7-10 FEET ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…OTHERWISE SURF 2 TO 5 FEET. RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL…HIGH. VERY STRONG CURRENTS AND DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. WATER TEMPERATURE…55-59 DEGREES. REMARKS…MAX SETS COULD REACH UP TO 15 FEET IN THE MORNING ALONG MOST EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES. SURF WILL SUBSIDE IN THE AFTERNOON. OUTLOOK FOR THURSDAY…ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…SURF SUBSIDING TO 5 TO 7 FEET IN THE MORNING… THEN SUBSIDING TO 3 TO 5 FEET BY THE AFTERNOON. ELSEWHERE…SURF 2 TO 4 FEET. CAZ040-051000- VENTURA COUNTY COAST- 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 …HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 AM THURSDAY ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES… …HIGH RIP CURRENT RISK… .WEDNESDAY… SURF HEIGHT…7-10 FEET ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…OTHERWISE SURF 2 TO 5 FEET. RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL…HIGH. VERY STRONG CURRENTS AND DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. WATER TEMPERATURE…54-57 DEGREES. REMARKS…MAX SETS COULD REACH UP TO 15 FEET IN THE MORNING ALONG MOST EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES. SURF WILL SUBSIDE IN THE AFTERNOON. OUTLOOK FOR THURSDAY…ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…SURF SUBSIDING TO 5 TO 7 FEET IN THE MORNING… THEN SUBSIDING TO 3 TO 5 FEET BY THE AFTERNOON. ELSEWHERE…SURF 2 TO 4 FEET. CAZ039-051000- SANTA BARBARA COUNTY SOUTH COAST- 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 …HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 AM THURSDAY ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES… …HIGH RIP CURRENT RISK… .WEDNESDAY… SURF HEIGHT…7-10 FEET ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…OTHERWISE SURF 2 TO 4 FEET. RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL…HIGH. VERY STRONG CURRENTS AND DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. WATER TEMPERATURE…52-57 DEGREES. REMARKS…MAX SETS COULD REACH UP TO 15 FEET IN THE MORNING ALONG MOST EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES. SURF WILL SUBSIDE IN THE AFTERNOON. OUTLOOK FOR THURSDAY…ALONG EXPOSED WEST FACING BEACHES…SURF SUBSIDING TO 4 TO 7 FEET IN THE MORNING… THEN SUBSIDING TO 3 TO 5 FEET BY THE AFTERNOON. ELSEWHERE…SURF 1 TO 3 FEET. KITTELL

Surf Forecast for Orange and San Diego Counties Issued by the National Weather Service, San DiegoFZUS56 KSGX 042124 SRFSGX SURF ZONE FORECAST NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN DIEGO CA 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 .FOR THE BEACHES OF EXTREME SOUTHWESTERN CALIFORNIA…FOR WED DEC 5. * THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION APPLIES WHEN FORECAST RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL IS “LOW”: DUE TO HIGHLY VARIED COASTAL TOPOGRAPHY DANGEROUS RIP CURRENTS ARE ALWAYS A POSSIBILITY ALONG THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST…AND SWIMMERS ARE URGED TO USE CAUTION AT ALL TIMES. CAZ042-051000- ORANGE COUNTY COASTAL AREAS- 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 …HIGH SURF ADVISORY NOW IN EFFECT FROM NOON TODAY TO 4 PM PST THURSDAY… …HIGH RIP CURRENT RISK… .WEDNESDAY… SURF HEIGHT…9 TO 12 FEET WITH MAX SETS TO 15 FEET. RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL…HIGH. VERY STRONG CURRENTS AND DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. WATER TEMPERATURE…59 TO 61 DEGREES. REMARKS…WEST SWELL INCREASES TO 12 FEET OVERNIGHT. OUTLOOK FOR THURSDAY…6 TO 8 FEET WITH SETS TO 10 FEET IN THE MORNING SUBSIDING TO 4 TO 6 FEET DURING THE AFTERNOON. CAZ043-051000- SAN DIEGO COUNTY COASTAL AREAS- 200 PM PST TUE DEC 4 2007 …HIGH SURF ADVISORY NOW IN EFFECT FROM NOON TODAY TO 2 PM PST SUNDAY… …HIGH RIP CURRENT RISK… .WEDNESDAY… SURF HEIGHT…9 TO 12 FEET WITH SETS TO 15 FEET EXCEPT SOUTH OF POINT LOMA…10 TO 14 FEET WITH SETS TO 19 FEET. RIP CURRENT POTENTIAL…HIGH. VERY STRONG CURRENTS AND DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. WATER TEMPERATURE…59 TO 61 DEGREES. REMARKS…WEST SWELL INCREASES TO 12 FEET OVERNIGHT. OUTLOOK FOR THURSDAY…6 TO 8 FEET WITH SETS TO 10 FEET WITH HIGHEST SURF SOUTH OF POINT LOMA.

strong swell but very raw. this pic was taken an hour ago in capitola looking up towards trees/privates.

kirk

And so it begins Harvest is now at 24 ft @ 20 seconds. I think I need a helmet. It just went into the death zone potential.

Um…holy crap. These pix don’t do justice. Bumpy, and humungousy.

–BCo

I toured West Cliff Dr at lunch. Natural Bridges not really the same spot as it’s supposed to be. Saw someone who I think was Ward Coffey getting a nice big one at Swift St - four guys out but no one really getting anything. Six or seven guys started paddling out at Swift and took about a half hour to get almost to the takeoff. Mitchells was pretty sudsy. SaberJets looked incredible - at least the wave that was breaking as I went by - with no one out. Lost interest in looking - ocean really tumultuous. Got a sandwich.

I checked Marina Beach before work. It was very BIG. Looked at Carmel Point after work. Getting close to HUGE. Nobody out. I wonder if there were any tow teams today. I guess I’ll hear about it in a couple of days. This will finally pull the remaining sand off the beaches for the sand bars when things calm down and the small wave pussys like me can enter the water. Mike

With the nightly news comes word of a drowning in the Monterey area and a number of rescues from west to east sides in Santa Cruz. Crazy - think any houses around Pot Belly or Rio del Mar will disappear?

so far an average, c- type swell with WAY too many people… maybe tomorrow will be cleaner…

I flew from San Diego to San Francisco and back today on business. I had a window seat and got a good view of the wave action in the morning, and again at around 2:00 p.m. on my return flight.

I think Santa Barbara county holds the prize for having the best looking waves today. Rincon had endless lines wrapping around it. All the points North of Goleta were also firing. The Ranchhad some nice looking lines wrapping around a couple of points. I have never surfed it before, but what I think was Drakes looked really nice. Personal note: All you Hollister Ranch land owners are a-holes. The coast line belongs to all Californians!

On my way home I was shocked to see how big the swell was in front of the Golden Gate. There were massive waves breaking at what looked like about two miles off the coast of Ocean Beach. The ships leaving the harbor had to stick to a narrow channel to thread their way through the chaos.

I wish I could have experienced the surf today. Still, it was fun getting the grand tour. I’m looking forward to getting out there in the morning tomorrow.

Quote:

============= PG&E DCPP Weather Forecast for Tuesday 12/04/07 =============

SEA/SWELL:

The #06-SE Papa buoy (600NM West of Eureka) and the #27-St Georges buoy

(8NM West Northwest of Crescent City), are no longer reporting data.

Both of these buoys may have been lost due to the storm.

The #59-California buoy (357NM West of San Francisco) reached 31.8 feet

(with a 20 second period) last night at 10:50 pm. The Cape Mendocino

waverider buoy reached 30 feet (with a 20 second period) earlier this

morning. There were no ship reports in the vicinity of yesterday’s

952 mb storm and it now appears that the winds were blowing at a

greater velocity than indicated on yesterday’s surface charts.

These stronger than predicted winds have generated a longer period

swell.

Anyone heard if Nelscott tow-contest (Central Coast Oregon) is gearing up?

john brewer

the swell definitely picked up today.looks like the south wind is coming up though…